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Bobby Flay is one of a generation of talented chefs developing a cuisine relying on bold flavors rather than fussy presentation or exotic ingredients. But not too bold, he said. “We’re looking for a balance. There’s a place in Boston where people compete to see how much heat they can stand. What’s the point?” He balances his beloved mildly hot poblano peppers with honey and maple syrup.
On avocados. “You’ll have to fix them right before you eat or they’ll get too brown. Forget about the idea of putting the pit in with the avocado. I’ve tried it and it doesn’t work. Too much lemon and you’ll just taste the lemon.” Flay tossed the avocado and lobster chunks with a mixture of horseradish, Tabasco, Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper, honey and olive oil. “It’s got the taste of the traditional shrimp cocktail without the tomato sauce, which tends to overpower it.”
On salad. “A teacher once told me that greens should look like they just dropped out of the sky onto your plate,” he said. “Don’t press them or mash them into the plate or bowl.”
On seasoning. “Season every layer. For instance, if you’re frying fish, season the fish, the egg mixture and the cornmeal.” His rib-eye steaks got a rub, a layer of chipotle sauce, a dollop of red and green chili sauces, and a finish of relish based on the sauce ingredients.
On grilling. “There are two kinds of men, those who can grill and those who think they can grill. The first kind has a funny apron and makes a big production out of it.” Flay said the single most important thing to know about grilling is let the grill do its work. “Learn to leave it alone,” he said. “It’s all that poking and fussing that ruins good meat or fish.”
– Theresa Curry
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