Old-fashioned delights at Exmore Diner on the Eastern Shore

By Tammy Jaxtheimer

Restaurant critic

When travelers find a dine-in establishment that serves wholesome fare fast, that's a noteworthy eatery. My family found such a spot on the Eastern Shore of Virginia.

While gassing up, we asked woman for directions to the Exmore Diner. She told us how to get there and added, "Best seafood on the Eastern Shore. Best food in the world."

You'll find the 1952 diner 34 miles north of the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel on Exmore's Main Street. The 42-seat diner prides itself on "old fashioned food at old fashioned prices." There aren't many places left where you can find soup for $1.75, sandwiches - BLT, tuna salad or ham and cheese - at $2.95 including chips, and a 4-ounce ribeye with two sides for only $5.95.

On our visit, Manhattan clam chowder ($1.75 cup, $2.75 bowl) was a pleasant rendition, more similar to Hatteras-style, with clear broth and chopped tomatoes as opposed to a tomato base. Although numerous menu items are not made on premise, I was told that the soups are always homemade. I look forward to tasting more.

Local fresh seafood is definitely a house specialty. One can choose two in the seafood combo for $10.95. Butterfly fried shrimp and fried oysters made a handsome twosome, flavorful and delicious. Dry-packed (chemical-free scallops) gently fried were juicy and delectable. The clam fritter, a flat pancake with clams and chopped onion, was tasty however paled in comparison with its plate partner, sumptuous scallops. I had hoped that Exmore's clam fritter would favor the Rhode Island clam cakes I grew up with - fried savory batter full with clams, but it proved to be only a distant cousin. With no fresh vegetables available, coleslaw, french fries, potato salad and fruit salad were satisfying sides.

Alan Packett, shares the operational duties with the owner, his sister, Evelyn Pruitt. In my follow-up phone call, he explained that to keep prices low, they sometimes have to for go the fresh local vegetables due to supply and demand pricing. Collards and green beans are typically a sure bet.

For nonseafood folks, there are many marvelous options, including beef liver ($4.95) smothered in gravy and onions. A nine-ounce hamburger steak ($5.95) - also offered in "XL" at 14 ounces for $7.95 - seemed like a good choice due to it being prepared with the same zeal for gravy and onions. Although we were told we could have it rare, it was closer to well, but the sautéed onions, silky gravy and crispy outside made the hamburger steak's doneness of little importance. Not having ever found an instant mashed potato that comes close to tasting real, we ordered more fries and server- recommended fried apples. I can now say that I've found fried apples to cheer. The apples were just firm enough with the sweetness coming from the fruit's nature.

A hand-dipped chocolate milkshake ($2.95), served in a malt glass and with its silver cup for refills, was thick, rich and yummy. I envision calling ahead for shakes if we want a snack while passing through Exmore.

If the diner is full, I am told that turnover is quick. We opted to sit at the counter for a front-row vantage where service was attentive, honest and accommodating. I saw servers take a seat in the booths to take regular customers' orders as they caught up on each other's lives. Although it was evident that we were only passing through, we felt welcomed and inspired to become regulars in our own due time.

Note to self-and others: If you're passing through Exmore on a Sunday, the diner is open until noon and has a breakfast-only rule.

I'm pretty certain a milkshake is a breakfast food.

Tammy Jaxtheimer flavor@pilotonline.com