Find bounty from the sea at Fish Bones

Restaurant critic

This year I found out about Fish Bones, a restaurant on Atlantic Avenue in Virginia Beach. I didn't know about it, probably because it closes during the off-season, which is when I am most likely to patronize Oceanfront businesses.

"Between 12th and 14th streets," I was told when I spoke by phone to owner Mike Georgiou. He has been open for 16 years. His son, Photis, is a partner.

All-you-can-eat seafood buffet diners are seated in the Oceanfront dining room, whereas other diners are serviced in the dining room overlooking Atlantic Avenue. Not being buffet seekers, we gave up the Oceanfront view for the full-service menu, but only after we took a peek at the buffet. Oysters and clams on the half shell, steamed shrimp, crab legs, fresh fish, scallops and numerous other selections - including several to please the landlubbers, too - were presented in small batches, appearing to ensure freshness. The buffet, offered May through September, will lure me back with my daughters, who enjoy getting up and down for a bounty of good choices.

Our server was personable and knowledgeable when describing fish of the day with prices. He happily sought out answers to questions when he wasn't certain. He suggested the drink special, Bahama Mama. It piqued our interest, and we enjoyed the beverage, as well as our server's sincere intent to inform.

Lightly battered, fried calamari ($8.99) rings and tentacles, were tender and toothsome. The steamed seafood combo ($12.99) included four each of oysters and littleneck clams as well as a half-pound of spiced shrimp. Each was steamed to perfection. The sumptuous seafood was served with drawn butter and cocktail sauce.

A concise, fresh salad bar of iceberg and romaine lettuces, quartered crisp cucumber slices, firm grape tomatoes, red onions, giardiniera (pickled vegetables) and house-made vinaigrette and ranch dressings added value to the entrees. When I told our server how pleased I was with the freshness, I was told that the Greek salad ($8.99) was a must-have specialty. I see Fish Bones homemade chowder ($4.50) and Greek salad as a summer supper in my near future.

Steak & shrimp ($19.99) delivered a 10-ounce Delmonico, rare as requested, and a dish of fried medium shrimp, not de-veined. The fried shrimp dinner is butterflied jumbo ($16.99), but I failed to notice that the combo dinner lists it as a half-pound of steamed or fried. The steak and shrimp were enjoyed; however, I would have preferred three jumbo shrimp or the half-pound of medium ones steamed.

When I learned that the scallops were "dry packed" or chemical-free, I ordered the Norfolk special ($18.99). It had scallops, shrimp and crabmeat in garlic butter and was an appetizing choice. The scallops and shrimp were succulent and the crab was good, but not as "lump" as one hopes for with backfin. However, the overall result was delicious.

Fresh catch of the day - tuna, salmon, flounder and rockfish on our visit - can be prepared broiled, fried, Cajun, blackened, lemon-pepper style or Mediterranean. My guest selected rockfish Mediterranean style. The long, thin, yet generous fillet appeared to be merely broiled. Our server confirmed it was indeed Mediterranean style with lemon juice, olive oil and spices. The Mediterranean essence was pleasant, but the fish was prepared past its peak of moistness.

Commercially prepared raspberry white chocolate cheesecake ($5.75) earned a perfunctory rating. We overheard that homemade rice pudding is a buffet item. We tried our best to score a taste, but there was none left.

I've marked my calendar to catch the Fish Bones buffet before the end of September.

Tammy Jaxtheimer, flavor@pilotonline.com Text goes here