Brunching at award-winning Chilli Peppers on the Outer Banks

Over the years I had heard about Chilli Peppers - and its award winning chili and chowder - on the Outer Banks of North Carolina. I was in Duck recently and made my first visit to the 15-year-old Kill Devil Hills eatery. It's owned by Jim Douglas and his wife, Lori, who also own Stripers, overlooking the water in Manteo.

We arrived for an early Sunday brunch to maximize our time on the beach. Arriving before noon is recommended to avoid a wait; however, the Bloody Mary bar and other adult beverages aren't available until noon. If brunch means more than a Virgin Mary, arrive accordingly. Jim's homemade pickled green beans and asparagus are a garnish I look forward to using. Another brunch attraction is the massage therapist with his chair and complimentary massage.

The wooden building is colorful and welcoming, and we were greeted by a friendly hostess. The bar offers tables for smoking diners. The 50-seat dining room, brightly decorated with wall murals, reminded me of a cafe in the islands, minus the outdoor dining option.

Nachos ($9) made with house fried tortilla chips had the tasty elements of black beans, shredded cheeses, lettuce, sour cream and salsa. We would have liked the ingredients to be more evenly distributed.

Crabby Eggs Benedict ($8.95) consisted of perfectly poached eggs - soft as requested - thin honey-glazed ham and sweet crab meat, topped with a well-prepared hollandaise sauce. The English muffin, although listed as a Thomas, lacked the brand's crisp attributes that the delicious components needed. Diced home fried potatoes with onions and peppers, initially served room temperature, were tastier when replaced with a warmer version.

My father always searched for the best huevos rancheros. I do, too. Seeing a huevos rancheros stack ($8.95) on the menu, I had to have it.

A bottom blue corn tortilla had savory, slow-cooked, pulled chicken, the middle one had refried beans and the top one had shredded cheese, lettuce, tomatoes, salsa, sour cream and eggs. The stack was stunning, and then I was surprised by the sight of scrambled eggs. When I shared my disappointment, our server said the menu states scrambled. In fact it reads, "two eggs any style." I didn't think to ask since my experience has been with soft fried or poached eggs. I asked for a fried egg replacement. She charged me $2.75.

My daughter summed up our indifferent service with, "She was a brat." I suspect our off-kilter server was an anomaly. The hostess and service assistant were pleasant and attentive. They more closely resemble the rest of the Chilli Peppers staff, according to my guest's experiences there.

From the kids' selections Calabash syle shrimp ($5.95) delivered perfectly crispy small fried shrimp and hot fries. Bigger kids can enjoy the same style shrimp in Chilli Peppers po'boy ($8.95) with smoked bacon and habanero ranch in a sun-dried tomato tortilla.

Bananas foster French toast ($8.95), golden Texas toast with sliced bananas in a buttery brown sugar syrup and peach whipped cream, was a sweet treat. Cherry-wood smoked bacon was toothsome; however, cheesy grits, which had a sprinkle of shredded cheese - not cooked in - were fine, but not fab.

Portions were plentiful, so we skipped dessert. I look forward to returning for lunch or dinner when we'll have staying power for homemade dessert such as a mini flan, Key lime pie or coconut cake.

With or without dessert, Chilli Peppers offers a variety of fresh-made fare complemented by house sauces, dressings and salsas sure to please most palates. The jalapeno chimichurri, barbecue sauce with sesame seeds and cantaloupe-based hot sauce are award-winning.

 Tammy Jaxtheimer, flavor@pilotonline.com