Ferry amount of things to do if you Surry down

SURRY

Need a get-a-way but are short on time, money or inspiration?

Head for Surry for a cruise on the ferry. Then immerse yourself in history, sample some local cuisine and browse in some of the area's most unique shops - and all on less than a tank of gas from Suffolk and Western Tidewater.

But before you head home, pick up a Surry County tourism brochure. As it turns out, there's more in the county to bring you back.

For example, did you know that Edgar Allen Poe is said to have been a frequent guest in the picturesque river village of Claremont?

And College Run Farms, off VA 10 offers a variety of "pick our own" seasonal fruits and vegetables.

The following is a peek at some of the treasures in Surry.

THE HISTORY

Jamestown Scotland Ferry

Surry is filled with places to enjoy, but the Jamestown Scotland Ferry is a "can't miss" attraction. With gulls wheeling overhead and an occasional wave breaking at the bow, the river crossing is literally a breath of fresh air - and it's free.

The 20-minute voyage runs between Surry and Jamestown, crossing the James River where Capt. John Smith explored 400 years ago. You can relax in the comfort of your car, stretch your legs on the deck or climb to the second floor observation deck.

From there you might glimpse a trio of replica ships modeled on the Godspeed, Susan Constant and Discovery that brought settlers to Jamestown in 1607.

The ferry runs around the clock and daily, and leaves on the hour and half hour with more frequent trips during rush hours.

Smith's Fort Plantation

Halfway between downtown Surry and the ferry wharf, sits Smith's Fort Plantation on VA 31. In 1609, Smith started a fort there as a retreat should Native Americans or marauding Spanish sailors attack Jamestown.

But he was called back to restore order at Jamestown, forcing him to abandon the fortifications. Chief Powhatan later gave the land to John Rolfe when the Englishman married his daughter, Pocahontas.

The Association for the Preservation of Virginia Antiquities owns the mid-18th century brick house that was built on the land. Knowledgeable docents lead tours through the house and point the way to a long, oyster-shell path leading to Smith's waterfront fort.

And do browse the house's basement where archaeological displays share space with a gift shop stocked with reproductions of Colonial era ceramic and pottery serving pieces, cache pots and berry crocks, hand-painted candles, cards and more.

"It's a gorgeous old home," said Tom Forehand, the site coordinator. "Ninety percent of the woodwork - including the cabinetry - is original."

Smith's Fort Plantation is open Tuesday-Saturday, 10 a.m.-4 p.m.; Sunday, noon-4 p.m. through October. In November, the house will be open on weekends only. Admission cost $7 adults, $6 seniors, $5 children with discounted combination tickets available.

From market to courthouse

Back at the crossroads you'll likely find local farmers manning an impromptu tailgate market with fresh produce and, occasionally, fresh fish.

The county courthouse, which is under restoration and expansion, is a crossroads landmark. Rebuilt circa 1923 after a fire destroyed the 1907 structure, the brick building with classic white columns still serves as the district courthouse. It holds one of the most complete collections of original county records in the country. The metal soldier standing on a granite base north of the courthouse is a 1909 memorial to Confederate soldiers.

Chippokes Plantation

Follow VA 10 east about eight miles to the circa 1619 Chippokes Plantation. The 1,700-acre plantation, one of the oldest continually working farms in the country, has been preserved as a state park fronting the James River.

Two 19th-century manor houses remain on the plantation, one of which is open to the public. The plantation also hosts formal gardens, picnic facilities, bike and hiking trails, a visitor center and a gift shop, as well as the Chippokes Farm and Forestry Museum, which is filled with memorabilia from 1850 rural Virginia.

"There's a million dollar view from the bluffs overlooking the James," George Lewis, administrative assistant at the park, said. "And miles and miles of trails along the beach and through the park."

The park is open from 8 a.m. until dusk, and charges a $3 parking fee on weekdays and $4 on holidays and weekends. The mansion and museum are free and open on weekends, from noon-4 p.m. until May when the hours expand.

Bacon's Castle

Further east on VA 10 sits the oldest documented brick house in English North America. Although it's known as Bacon's Castle, the two-story house was built in 1665 by English planter Arthur Allen.

In 1676, Nathaniel Bacon led a rebellion against the British Colonial government and burned the Jamestown settlement to the ground before he fled to Gloucester. Seventy of his men retreated to Surry and seized Allen's house for four months until Bacon died from an illness. His men then disbanded and Allen reclaimed his house.

The house and garden, said to be the oldest and best-preserved-17th-century garden site in the country, are open for tours Tuesday through Saturday, 10 a.m.-4 p.m.; Sunday noon-4 p.m. through October. In November the house will be open on weekends only. Admission cost $7 adults, $6 seniors, and $5 children with discounted tickets available that include Smith's Fort Plantation at $10 adults, $8 seniors and $6 children.

Surry Nuclear Information Center

Travel from the 17th century to the 21st by driving about three miles north to the Surry Nuclear Information Center. There, a model nuclear reactor and interactive exhibits trace the nuclear energy path from mining uranium to producing energy.

The center is open, free, on weekdays, from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. and closed on weekends and holidays.

Hog Island

Drive a little further down the road and you'll be in the 3,908-acre Hog Island Wildlife Management Area. The open land, pine forest and tidal marsh is where early settlers let their hogs roam. Now, from two wildlife viewing platforms you can watch for some of the thousands of waterfowl and shorebirds shelter there.

Call (757) 357-5224 to verify hours, as they vary with hunting seasons.

THE EATS

Hungry after all that touring? Mexican cuisine, pizza and a few local traditions are all waiting in the crossroads vicinity.

The Surrey House has been a local favorite for 54 years. In spite of numerous owners, the restaurant retains its cozy ambiance and signature peanut raisin pie ($2.99 slice) and peanut soup ($2.99 and $3.99).

The Colonial Farmhouse opened a year ago on VA 10. An elegant dining room, a grand piano and crystal chandeliers add a touch of elegance to a moderately priced menu with specialties such as Chesapeake blue crab dip ($9.49). Entrees start at $9.99, sandwich plates at $6.99 and salads, vegetarian dishes and pizza are also on the menu.

The restaurant's Colonial-style tavern is perfect for cocktails and conversation, with a DJ on Friday and Saturday nights from 10:30 p.m. to 2 a.m.

The Rocky Bottom Grill at Gray's Creek Marina, about 2 miles west of the ferry wharf on Marina Drive, offers waterfront dining - sandwiches, salads, soups, full dinners - with lots of seafood options from $6.95 and higher. The grill features live bands on Friday and Saturday nights.

Bacon's Castle Supply Inc. If a shaded picnic grove in the center of town and across from the Surrey House, tempts you, pick up some lighter fare at the Bacon's Castle Supply Inc., a charming white cottage. In addition to a variety of peanuts and gifts, the managers offer a hard to beat lunch special - a pair of hot dogs with a drink and a bag of chips for $2.50.

Edwards VA Ham Shoppe

For history on a roll, head west on Rolfe Highway. Less than a mile from the crossroads sits Edwards VA Ham Shoppe. An original captain of the ferry, S. Wallace Edwards, starting selling his home-cured ham sandwiches to passengers more than 60 years ago. The family business has grown to include a wide variety of hams, sausages and other products.

While you browse the ham shop's stock of mango butter, sweet potato biscuit mix and other goodies, order a sausage sandwich ($3.50) or ham biscuits ($2 for two) to go.

Ready to shop?

Farmer Joe's Greenhouse and Gift Shop just off the crossroads sells heirloom plants such as cockscomb and yarrow, as well as modern varieties. Farmer Joe Holler also stocks pruning shears, birdhouses, cards, gifts, garden seeds and jewelry.

The Faison Studio If the sidewalk assemblage of artwork at The Faison Studio doesn't grab your attention then Sharon Faison's hand-painted furniture surely will. A three-drawer chest painted in a nautical theme is priced at $450. Inside the shop you can find more hand-painted pieces, as well as a collection of boutique fashions and jewelry.

Johnson Brothers Inc. Just east on VA 10 is a rainbow of resin Adirondack chairs on the lawn of Johnson Brothers Inc. farm supply store. The chairs, at $21.99 for adult size, $9.99 for kid size, have been a surprise best seller this year. Owner Steve Johnson said he smiles whenever he sees the brightly colored chairs lining local porches.

"We have a good supply except for the hot pink," his daughter, Kelly Johnson, said. "That's the most popular color and sells out fast."

Phyllis Speidell, (757) 222-5556, phyllis.speidell@pilotonline.com