Saint Nicholas bakes, too

By Jan Warren

Correspondent

VIRGINIA BEACH

It's food fit for the gods. But it's made by humans.

Specifically, by the Ladies Philoptochos Society of St. Nicholas Greek Orthodox Church.

The women will sell a variety of the delectables at their annual Holiday Bake Sale of Greek Pastries and Entrees, from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Friday at the church on First Colonial Road.

"Everything's homemade," said Anna Haupt, publicity chairman. "Young cooks are taught by older cooks to do it right. If the koulourakia (butter cookies) aren't rolled perfectly, we roll 'em again."

More than a dozen items will be sold, including favorites such as baklava (layers of flaky phyllo drenched with syrup and almonds) and spanakopita (spinach triangles with feta cheese.)

Other favorites, such as pastitsio (a lasagna-like dish with ground beef, cheese and pasta) and gyros (pita sandwiches with pork, lamb or beef ) will be served from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.

The bake sale is almost as old as the church itself.

St. Nicholas was founded in 1979. Services were held at Plaza Junior High (now middle) School.

In 1981, the church moved to its current location, a former roller rink.

"Some called us the Holy Rollers," Haupt said.

The bake sale started in 1980 when the now-defunct department store Rices-Nachman celebrated its grand opening in Lynnhaven Mall with a Greek festival.

Seeing a chance to collect money for their building fund, the St. Nicholas church women baked enough sumptuous Greek food to raise about $5,000.

Word of the women's baking skills spread, and the holiday sale has been an annual fundraiser since.

In recent years, the proceeds - all of which go to local and national charities - have topped $17,000.

The church today has a membership of more than 150 families. An addition built just over a decade ago includes a sanctuary, classrooms and kitchen.

The Ladies Philoptochos Society of St. Nicholas, known as "the right hand of the church," has grown to include about 40 members, half of whom work on the sale. From June until sale day, they meet in the church kitchen on Mondays and Wednesdays - and cook.

"We figure it's about 80 days of cooking and baking," said Joan Redfearn, treasurer. "And yes, it's fun - particularly when we look back on it."

The telltale scent of rising dough and the sound of joyful chatter lead one to the well-equipped church kitchen. It's a scene of efficient mass production with a friendly pecking order, where senior bakers are recognized for their skill.

"I started as a gofer and dishwasher," said Toni King, deftly rolling a scoop of cookie dough into a traditional twist. "But now I've graduated. There's a lot to this."

A round, braided New Year's bread called Vasilopita always sells out. According to tradition, the first slice is for the Lord, the second for the home, and the remainder for family and friends.

A coin is hidden in each loaf and brings good luck to the finder. If the coin is in the Lord's slice, all will be blessed.

Certainly, good luck has followed the bake sale. "We're a sisterhood with a big heart, a big spirit and a good product," Haupt said. "We know there is a higher being helping us."

Jan Warren, janwarren@wcbeach.com