zpizza is a pizza parlor with pizzazz

SINCE 1986, Laguna Beach, Calif., has had zpizza, a casual counter-service eatery that aims to offer "lighter, healthier, delicious and creative pizza."

Since May 31, a Virginia Beach spot has joined the franchise's 100 stores across the country.

When I called to set up a "zphoto shoot" (couldn't resist), Linda Tran, who owns it with her husband, Thao, said they like the "fresh approach with organic sauce and MSG-free pepperoni." Additive-free chicken sausage, organic wheat flour crust and gluten-free crust are offered, too.

A sandwich chalkboard lists the week's daily "zslice." Pepperoni and cheese are standard, joined by two others, Tuscan mushroom, with roasted garlic, caramelized onions, feta, truffle oil and thyme, or Greek, with feta, mozzarella, red onions, kalamata olives, tomatoes and oregano.

Guests can also create their own pizza from the extensive list of veggies, meats and cheeses - and soy.

Any pizza can also be made into a calzone ($6.95).

We selected Santa Fe from the 15 "zpizzacreations" priced at $9.95, 10-inch; $16.45, 14-inch; and $19.95, 18-inch. Tasty chicken sausage, red onions, corn, serr ano chilies, tomato slices and fresh cilantro made for a festive looking pie with chipotle pesto sauce and mozzarella cheese.

A light and slightly crisp crust had enough structure to support the wholesome ingredients with a pleasant heat.

Caesar salad ($5.25/$6.99), crisp romaine lettuce tossed with a well-balanced dressing, was surrounded with crisp garlicky baguette slices. It had plenty of shaved Parmesan, but it lacked the rich, sharp flavor associated with the highest quality of this cheese.

ZBQ salad ($5.95/$8.49) did not make a positive first impression. It had a dollop of unappetizing barbecued chicken in the center of mixed greens that were gently tossed with chipotle ranch dressing garnished with red peppers and onions, yellow corn and cilantro. The overworked barbecue would have been better-looking nestled in a bun.

It tasted fine when eaten with the other ingredients, but being one who eats with my eyes, I'm trying the pear and Gorgonzola salad on my next visit.

Penne with meatballs ($6.99) made with organic marinara zinged us with a diavolo-style, or very hot, spiciness. The counter server apologized and offered to make something else for my 12-year-old. She opted for more of the fresh Caesar.

Employees were courteous, but their inexperience was evident when maintaining a clean dining room. One clean table was closest to the door, which let in frigid air from the cold night. We settled in the banquette close to the open kitchen and asked an employee to clean the table. A slack swipe left grease and sauce spots behind. I predict that it will improve.

In fact, I would return to Zpizza for more of its fresh fare.

Tammy Jaxtheimer, dailybreak@pilotonline.com