Cellars Restaurant offers historic charm, attentive service

The Cellars Restaurant is a historical hideaway.

The basement restaurant in the Church Point Manor House, a renovated 1860s farmhouse and carriage house, is part of an elegant bed and breakfast. The 42-seat dining room exudes warmth, as does the bar and lounge area, with fireplaces, darts and televisions. Manager and sommelier Richard T. Russo and the staff add attentive hospitality.

The well-constructed wine list is 220 bottles strong, with 28 offered by the glass. The menu is limited – six appetizers, seven entrees, six sides and a few featured desserts when we visited.

We started with beef burgundy soup (cup $5, bowl $8), which was pleasing, and Caesar salad ($8), which did not deliver the classic flavor.

Herb-encrusted salmon ($22) topped with caviar creme fraiche shared the plate with al dente local asparagus and “broken fingerling hash.” It all was perfectly prepared and appealing.

Six petite New Zealand lamb chops ($32), requested medium-rare, were enjoyed with the understated herbed merlot glace, even though several were past pink. Also, the pea and parmesan risotto was soupy and bland.

Apple wood bacon and leeks risotto, again overcooked, accompanied “cornmeal crusted” diver scallops ($27). The scallops were tasty, but the cornmeal was too heavy with alfalfa sprouts .

Smithfield pork tenderloin, stuffed with apples and prosciutto, was delivered medium-well despite my guest’s having requested medium-rare . The stuffing and chevre cream sauce helped maintain the meat’s moistness. Fried macaroni and cheese in a crispy triangle was unique, and fresh collards, prepared with care, made a non-collard-eating guest a convert.

The Cellars’ ambience and service had far outdone its fare. Seeing signs of culinary artistry, and potential, I returned.

Cream of artichoke and truffle oil soup ($5 cup, $8 bowl) was terrific. Fried oysters Rockefeller ($12), topped with a dollop of creamed spinach puree, were a rousing rendition.

Five jumbo shrimp and grits ($19) were well prepared. Gruyere stone-ground grits with button mushroom “pot liquor” and miniature morsels of Smithfield ham made for an appealing accompaniment.

A menu addition, lemon herb seared scallops ($28) with fingerling potatoes, piqued my interest owing to its simpler preparation than the scallop dish I had sampled previously. This time, the pea and parmesan risotto was flavorful and had the proper, satisfying texture. The scallops were simply delicious, but alfalfa sprouts detracted again. A pork belly side resembled no pork belly I’ve ever enjoyed.

Joe Bartel shows promise in his first executive chef position. With more attention to substance and details, Bartel could be in stride with The Cellars’ atmosphere and service.