Chill out with these lighter and more refreshing wines

By Jim Raper

Correspondent

Warm weather is on its way. That means big bruiser red wines should retreat into the cool reaches of the cellar. It's time to look for lighter and more refreshing wines, which usually means whites such as chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, riesling and pinot grigio. But this short list of the nation's favorite whites doesn't begin to cover the array of wines that provide a pleasant lift when chilled. Here are some alternative wines that would never be mistaken for chardonnay.

- Gruner veltliner: Austria produces this tart and spicy white that doesn't wimp out when paired with weiner schnitzel, veal sausages or fried oysters. Examples from the Wachau region are usually the best you can find in Hampton Roads, but their prices are getting a little high for everyday drinking. Try Huber 2007 Gruner Veltliner Hugo Austria, $12 at Let's Talk Wine in southern Chesapeake.

- Verdejo: This variety of grape produces the aromatic white wines from Rueda and a few other districts of Spain. It tastes a little like sauvignon blanc, with which it is often blended in Rueda. But verdejo boasts mineral and kiwi tastes as well as the grapefruit and grass of sauvignon. It complements seafood paella and most other seafood, including dishes with creamy sauces. Try Tapena 2007 Verdejo Tierra de Castilla, $9 at Harris Teeter, or Palma Real Rueda Verdejo, $12 at Total Wine and More.

- Verdelho: It's probably best known as a grape used to make a specific style of sweet madeira, but this aromatic variety produces some interesting and refreshing white wines in Australia. Honeydew flavors are prominent, and it reminds me of the verdejo listed above, but experts say they are different varieties. Serve it with shrimp. Try Woop Woop 2008 Verdelho South Australia, $17 at Vino 100 in southern Virginia Beach.

- Vermentino: Also known as rolle in France, this has been popular in Mediterranean wine regions since ancient times. Choice examples come from Corsica's Patrimonio, Sardinia and the appellation of Bellet in France's Provence. Vermentinos have distinctive mineral notes and crisp, tart apple acidity to make them mate well with most seafood, including raw oysters. You can also serve them with ratatouille. Try Sella and Mosca 2007 Vermentino La Cala Sardinia, $15 at Bon Vivant in north Suffolk.

- Vernaccia: Good bets are the examples from San Gimignano, Italy, so look for the name of that Tuscan town on the label. Lovers of bold chardonnays and sweetish rieslings may want to avoid this austere white. But the traces of bitter minerals, almond and grapefruit zest make it remarkably food friendly. Pair it with dishes featuring olive oil, olives and ripe cheeses. Try Gattavecchi 2007 Vernaccia di San Gimignano, $14 at Total Wine and More.

- Vidal blanc: French-American hybrid grapes such as vidal are popular in Eastern winemaking states, including Virginia. This may be the best of the hybrids, and it shines in relatively expensive, late-harvest and ice wines. Vidal also shows its friendly, crisp apple fruit in off-dry and dry examples that are commendable quaffers. Try Chateau Morrisette 2006 Vidal Blanc Virginia, $10.50 at The Market at Harbor Heights in Norfolk (a later vintage would be better).

- Vinho verde: A category of young (thus verdant or "green") wines from Portugal, vinho verde is spritzy, low in alcohol and lime fresh. This is a great wine to open at a picnic or on the deck. Most are dry, but some have a touch of sweet apple flavor. Serve with salty finger foods. Try Broadbent 2008 Vinho Verde Portugal, $10 at Let's Talk Wine in southern Chesapeake.

- Viognier: The classic example of this white wine comes from France's northern Rhone, most labeled as Condrieu. Excellent viognier varietals also are being produced in southern France, northern and central California, Australia and Virginia. Minimal oak lets the honeysuckle nose and the fresh white peach and pear flavors shine. This wine is delicious with crabcakes. Try Horton 2007 Viognier Orange County, $17 at Taste Unlimited, Ghent, in Norfolk.

- Viura: Also known as macabeo in France and the sparkling wine district near Barcelona, this is a Spanish name for the prominent white variety in Rioja. Good wines have begun to show up recently from several districts of Spain labeled simply as viura or as viura/chardonnay blends. An attractive peach-pit bitterness waits behind the tart apple viura flavor. The wine pairs well with delicate fish filets or salads prepared with olive oil. Try Faustino V 2007 Rioja Blanc, $11.50 at The Market at Harbor Heights in Norfolk, or Ochoa 2007 Viura (70 percent)/Chardonnay Navarra, $16 at Vino 100 in southern Virginia Beach.

- Vouvray: A district in France's Loire Valley, Vouvray produces some delicious wines chock full of ripe yellow peach and mineral flavors. But too many examples available in Hampton Roads are mediocre wines loaded down with sugar. One way to get delightful Vouvray flavor is to purchase a sparkling wine from the region. These are great to serve at graduation or wedding parties. Try Bougrier Vouvray Brut, $18 at Total Wine and More.

- Valpolicella and ventoux: These low-tannin red wines can be serve with a little chill on them, say at 55 to 60 degrees from the bottle spending 20 minutes on ice. Cheap, widely distributed valpolicella is a little too thin to please many wine enthusiasts. Upscale examples have more black cherry fruit, a little more like the intense Amarone della Valpolicella, and they are great with pizza or burgers. Try Antica Corte 2007 Valpolicella Classico, $14 at Total Wine and More. Cotes du Ventoux is an unheralded neighbor of the Cotes du Rhone district in southern France. The wines tend to be blackberry spicy, although not too complex. This is another burger wine. Try Perrin La Vieille Ferme 2007 Cotes du Ventoux, $8 at The Market at Harbor Heights in Norfolk.

 Jim Raper writes the monthly "Humble Steward" wine column for Flavor.