Still, Worldly Eclectic is inviting; menu items get mixed reviews

Olde Towne Portsmouth has been home to Still, Worldly Eclectic Tapas since Oct. 31. From the Friday evening we visited Still, a historical building that dates back to 1856, it appeared they are attracting diners as well as “noshers” in their multiple small rooms, including the bar with bar-height tables and leather settees in front of two-sided fireplaces. Still’s signature adult beverages, single malt whiskies, wine and beer selections well support the social aspect of dining.

The tapas (small plates) menu is divided into sections: “foreshots,” “middle cut” and “feints,” the names of the “three cuts” in the distillation of malt whiskey. Any “middle cut” can be “entrée-ized” for an additional $10.

Green chili and potato encrusted tuna tataki with Sriracha aioli drizzle and soy syrup ($9.50) was a favorite from “foreshots.” Seared rare tuna medallions with a tasty crust on the perimeter were terrific with the spicy aioli and sweeter syrup. Caesar salad ($6) was selected due to its unique “molten goat cheese croutons.” It was a flavorful twist.

“Middle cut” selections were hit and miss. Bronzed sea scallops, perfectly done, over a smidge of corn relish, charred green tomato aioli and adorned with crystallike “bacon brittle” ($8) was a pleasant play of textures and flavors, however three scallops – medium-sized – seemed scanty. Spicy chicken vindaloo ($8) was a savory stew of moist chicken, carrots and sweet potatoes with the nuance of mango plum chutney atop saffron rice, topped with naan, Indian flat bread. Butternut squash and wild mushroom ravioli were anorexic with too little stuffing and flavor, other than accompanying sweet pecan sage demi ($8.50).

“House made paella of the day, market price,” piqued our interest. Chicken tidbits, thinly sliced French sausage and tasteless shrimp ($9) were dry and overdone atop saffron rice that offered no salvation.

We ordered grilled Kobe beef meatloaf ($9) over mashed potatoes with balsamic tomato ragout . It was moist and delicious with appetizing accompaniments.

Bread pudding ($5.50) with whiskey sauce did not live up to its “house specialty” claim. The sauce was gritty. It was removed from our bill with Chef Mike Farrell’s apology – and assurance that the sauce was normally smooth. Chocolate Guinness cake ($7) over Bailey’s Irish crème anglaise and balsamic cherry coulis fulfilled our need for something sweet .

Our server was friendly but forgetful and inefficient.

The venue is warm and inviting, but if you arrive hungry you could spend more than expected if you select tapas that take the “small dish” concept too seriously. The menu has changed since this visit, so ask your server to suggest more plentiful plates if you’re one who appreciates good food with good value, too.

All in all, Still is still worth a trip to Olde Towne.

Tammy G. Jaxtheimer, flavor@pilotonline.com