Ham-and-soft-shell sandwich dubbed 'Preacher Dave' is heavenly

COURTLAND

Here's something to ponder: How far would you drive for a sandwich?

To the next town?

To the one past that?

A few counties yonder?

That was the dilemma earlier this month when I considered lunching with Dave Henson way out in Southampton County, past Suffolk and Franklin. See, Dave has a sandwich named for him, and he really thought I should taste it. Something about ham and a soft-shell crab.

Although soft-shell season is on the wane, the Preacher Dave could still be had at a cozy little restaurant called For Pete's Sake, right there on U.S. 58 Business, which is not very busy at all.

So, on a sunny summer day, 60-plus miles from home, I sat in a booth across from Dave, who just the week before had retired from his preaching post at Centenary United Methodist Church in Jarrett.

We ordered up two Preacher Dave sandwiches ($9.95 each) and, over glasses of fresh-brewed iced tea with fat lemon slices, took in the decor - a snarling stuffed bobcat, framed works by local artists, old farm implements, a sign that says "Behave."

"And the same paneling I have in my den," Dave said, giving the wall a couple of knocks for emphasis. "This place has got a good spirit."

For Pete's Sake is owned by Franklin natives Pete and Sandra Pearson. Pete Pearson tended bar for years at the long-gone A Restaurant By George in Nags Head and then moved on to run the grill at the Sea Scape Golf Links in Kitty Hawk.

The Pearsons moved home to Franklin and opened Phillips and Company Restaurant, a white tablecloth restaurant in the downtown district. Floodwaters wrought by Hurricane Floyd in 1999 ended that venture, and now every day but Monday the Pearsons serve up Southern cooking with an Outer Banks influence, including fried catfish, pork tenderloin, tuna salad made with fresh tuna, tomato pudding and lace corn bread.

And of course, when soft-shells are in season, there's the Preacher Dave sandwich.

Dave, who recently underwent open-heart surgery, prepared for his sandwich by having his blood checked just before lunch. His green eyes twinkling like Santa's, he confessed he used to eat one, maybe two of his namesake sandwiches each week. But now his wife, Eleanor, in concert with his cardiologist, has set the limit at one per month.

While we waited, Dave chronicled the birth of the Preacher Dave. For a while now, Dave has eaten here "all five days" of the week, he said. Then, after a giggle, he offered another confession: "Sometimes I do a triple-header."

His favorite meals are the grilled marinated chicken breast sandwich and the calf's liver with onions and gravy. He's also a fan of the country ham sandwich, and one day he said, "Pete, I think that ham would be good with a fried soft-shell crab on it."

Pete made it and Dave liked it, but Pete didn't taste it until a cook made one by mistake, and then he liked it, too. Pete offered it as a special, and it caught on. One Sunday after church, Dave came in for lunch and saw the Preacher Dave sandwich listed as a chalkboard special. He was so happy and honored that he had his picture taken with the menu.

"Now I tell everyone," he said.

When the waitress brought over our Preacher Dave sandwiches, his eyes lit up once again. "Do we have suitable legs hanging out the sides?" he asked. Check: Four legs and two fat claws dangled from the edge of the bread.

Underneath the crab lay a slice of melted Swiss, country ham, lettuce and ripe tomato. A cup of Cajun tartar sauce sat on the side, along with a pile of golden fries and a dill pickle.

Pete Pearson, who circled the dining room and seemed to know all his customers, came by to say he uses Felts country-cured ham because it is a bit less salty than other brands. Felts is made right in Southampton County, and Pete said he tries to use local foods whenever possible.

One bite and I knew that Preacher Dave was on to something. The salt of the ham blended perfectly with the sweet seafood taste of the soft-shell. A bit of Cajun tartar added a slightly spicy finish. And the textures - smooth melted Swiss, tender thin-sliced ham and crunchy soft-shell and rye - provided more interest.

I had stopped on this far-off stretch of road before. Not a half-mile up the road is Bill's Hometown Grill, which won The Pilot's fried chicken taste test and remains a favorite.

Now there's another reason to arrive hungry in Courtland. Like the preacher promised, his sandwich was worth the drive.

Lorraine Eaton, (757) 446-2697, lorraine.eaton@pilotonline.com