The Street Cook is Mediterranean food bliss

By Tammy G. Jaxtheimer Restaurant critic

VIRGINIA BEACH

Too often, diners diminish the dessert factor. A dessert can end the meal with distinction or doldrums – or disaster. 

The Street Cook, in Parkway Shopping Center on Lynnhaven Parkway in Virginia Beach , has “the bombe” dessert insurance. Its chocolate-ganache-coated orb of chocolate mousse and fudgy brownie bottom is luscious.  Be forewarned, though: The bombe is available in limited quantities only on the weekends.  Guests can call ahead for a weekday bombe, or reserve one for their weekend dining pleasure.

Homemade baklava with strong cinnamon presence was good, but it was not powerful enough to contend with the memorable bombe.  Numerous other desserts – bread pudding, cheesecake, chocolate torte and apple crisp, among others – are also homemade. 

Owner Barbara Sykes has spruced up the original Street Cook, which was opened in 1986 by the late Chris Kevatos. The cozy dining room of booths and banquettes continues to serve homemade Mediterranean-influenced fare.   

Saganaki ($7.25), “flaming provolone cheese,” was expertly enhanced with brandy and lemon juice by our capable and attentive server, who saluted us with “opa”  (good wishes in Greek) as the tasty cheese turned golden.        

Lightly fried calamari rings ($8.25) were rubbery, not tender as we had anticipated. Accompanying skordalia, whipped garlic cream cheese, was a pleasant bonus. 

The gyro ($10.95) brought us sliced, spiced, minced, molded lamb meat in a pita, with chopped tomatoes, crisp lettuce and a refreshing dollop of tzatziki (cucumber yogurt sauce).  “Pumfritz,” The Street Cook’s french fries, classically called “pommes frites,” complimented the Greek classic.

Veal piccata ($19.95), with crab meat and dollar add-on for capers, was savored in its well-balanced lemon sauce. Fettuccini “Alfredo-style” was lighter and less creamy, just the way my guest prefers, and well-suited as an accompaniment. 

Chicken sorrento ($16.95), with mushrooms, cappicolo and Marsala wine sauce topped with provolone cheese, came with fettuccine Alfredo-style. A plump boneless chicken breast was perfectly tender, moist and flavorful.  The Marsala sauce was dark, resembling “hunters sauce” without much wine flavor; however, it was still pleasing.

Fresh family-style Greek salad with house-made vinaigrette and garlic toast brought added value to the entrees. 

It well suits The Street Cook, since right away they aim to make you comfortable – like you’re family – with fresh plentiful choices and portions.  

Tammy G. Jaxtheimer, flavor@pilotonline.com