Charming, 'special' Steinhilber's

VIRGINIA BEACH

Steinhilber’s is steeped in tradition.

In 1935, Robert Steinhilber, Norfolk resident and restaurant worker, grew tired of the “city life” and bought the waterfront property where Steinhilber’s sits today. He operated the Thalia Acres weekend retreat, offering canoeing, hiking and horseback riding. In 1939, Steinhilber’s was opened, after “Steiny” gave in to his friends’ pleas to open a restaurant.

Today, his daughter, Jeanne Steinhilber, and her son, Brady Viccellio, keep the place humming with much of the same fanfare that attracted patrons of yesteryear. The charming wooded interior, reverberating with conversations, beckons folks back for quality seafood – especially fried shrimp – and steaks. Patio dining appears to be popular, an option I would welcome on a crisp fall evening.

Since April, acclaimed chef Bobby Huber of Bobbywood fame has been tweaking tradition at Steinhilber’s and meshing his culinary arts prowess with seamless effect.

The Pilot’s recent Gracious Living Taste Test for fried shrimp named Steinhilber’s the victor. Always a Steiny’s shrimp advocate, I had to have them as well and allow my guests to experience them for their first time. Mammoth golden fried shrimp ($18 half dozen, $35.95 dozen) are still stupendous with the savory “secret” sauce.

Fresh fish starts at $27.95 and creeps up to $35.95 for lump crab stuffing. A well-seasoned, authentic blackened tuna steak ($28.95), “as close to rare as possible” as requested, was thoroughly enjoyed.

All natural Harris Ranch Delmonico ($29.95), perfectly medium-rare, was delicious. Prime New York strip ($36.95) and filet mignon ($32.95) are also available. Our server said the twice-baked potato was a house specialty, but I found the salty crisp skin on the straight baked potato to be more special with its fluffy center – heavenly with real butter.

Ordering the fried – not broiled – seafood platter ($33.95) would enable me to have two more Steiny’s shrimp. Flaky flounder, meaty crab cake, four each of succulent oysters and scallops – of top quality – were expertly fried in the same manner as the shrimp. Current crisp green beans with onions and mushrooms complemented the classic platter.

Tasty toast, healthy house salad, side of choice and homemade yeast rolls bring added value to entree pricing that some might consider “special occasion only.”

Huber’s chocolate sin pie ($5.75) was as luscious as I recall from Bobbywood days. We wanted Huber’s homemade cheesecake but had to settle for Carnegie Deli’s (slice $9, half slice $5.95) since they were out. The New York City-shipped cake was good, but I prefer in-house prepared desserts, especially when the house has Huber’s talent.

Our server was attentive and knowledgeable. However, he did fail to tell us about the children’s selections and the featured prime rib that we heard another server entice guests with after we had ordered.

Steinhilber’s Web site statement, “Remember a time when every meal out was a special event,” says it all.

Tammy G. Jaxtheimer, flavor@pilotonline.com