Press 626 lures diners with tasty menu items

NORFOLK

Black Friday 2008 was when the Ghent house with the elevated entrance on the corner of Colley and Olney welcomed guests to Press 626, after The Winehouse moved out – and up the street.

Alluring lighting and a welcoming stairwell to the petite porch – perfect for a few guests – draw you to Press 626 like a moth. The casual-yet-sophisticated approach to wine and food is what will keep you returning.

A large L-shaped bar in the main dining area with a high ceiling, wood floors and stylish lighting is surrounded by standard and bar-height tables. A separate room offers more seating.

Lindsay Bennett, previously bar manager at Todd Jurich’s Bistro, owns Press 626 with her husband, Ed.

My guest was impressed with the tequila selection; the restaurant has an impressive wine list, too, with “50 wines under $50.”

The create-your-own-salad menu item – up to 10 items for $10 plus surcharge selections – was as fun to build as it was to eat. For veggies, we agreed on romaine over mesclun or spinach and avocado, red onion, cucumber, grape tomato and grilled portobello. We forsook fruits and picked applewood bacon for protein, Parmigiano-Reggiano for cheese and cucumber herb dressing. Our designer salad was fresh and appetizing, as was our other appetizer, beer-battered onion rings ($3.95), although the price was steep for the small serving.

A chalkboard addition was cioppino ($23.95), a tomato-based stew of four each of littleneck clams, quality jumbo shrimp and scallops as well as seven mussels. Chopped canned clams in the broth detracted from the perfectly prepared seafood, worthy of only fresh ingredients.

From the “press” sandwiches, the salmon BLT with chipotle mayonnaise ($12.95), rare as requested, was a super selection, including home-cut fries, a $1.75 substitution for mesclun greens.

Seasoned, seared pork tenderloin ($16.95) was pleasingly pink and plentiful. The accompanying spinach sauteed with garlic and almonds was tasty, but the potato and bacon au gratin stack, fried potato slices smothered in cold bechamel (white cream sauce) dotted with bacon bits, was disappointing.

The molten chocolate cupcake with a dollop of vanilla ice cream ($4.99) was rich and appealing but did not deserve to be called “jumbo.” It was scant for the price and could not compare to the cupcakes I crave – and have easily shared – from New York City for much less. The featured homemade apple pie ($6.95) was also good.

Pop in to Press 626 for drinks and linger longer for sustenance. Consider making reservations for dinner or Sunday brunch. Weekday lunch is a wholesome choice, too. Press 626 is a great Ghent go-to.

Tammy G. Jaxtheimer, flavor@pilotonline.com