Luna Maya serves up tastes of owners' Bolivian heritage

NORFOLK

While driving to Luna Maya in Ghent, I thought eagerly about guacamole.

The Montano sisters, Karla and Vivian, have long had legendary guacamole, and I well remember my first taste in their humble beginnings in Virginia Beach's Aragona neighborhood in 1997.

Ripe avocados are cut open only when a guacamole order ($7) is placed, and are minimally altered, resulting in a spanking fresh and delicious rendition served with chipotle salsa and crisp triangular tortilla chips. This batch was just as memorable as the last time.

Luna Maya does not accept reservations, so you may end up at the bar or hovering around it if you visit during prime weekend times. No worries, because the bar is welcoming, and many choose to stay and dine there. Margaritas are a cut above because they use homemade sour mix to provide a marvelous mesh of refreshing flavors. Their specialty adult beverages and fresh-squeezed lemonade have the power to pique your interest - and definitely make the wait more enjoyable.

The hip space of bright orange and yellow is warm and abuzz. Luna Maya is a Ghent hub. We sat next to a couple who said they visit every Friday night, and sometimes Saturday, too, at their regular corner table.

Another appetizer, gambas al ajillo ($7), sautéed shrimp with garlic, cilantro and lime juice, was perfectly prepared, and Tamale Luna Maya ($7) had us humming about the textures and flavors of the sweet yellow corn tamale and its savory shredded beef.

Burrito Colorado ($12) contained chicken in guajillo sauce (with various heat levels available), rice, beans, chipot-le salsa and sour cream. Each bite had all the ingredients working in harmony. It was addictive. I now understand why one of the regulars next to us orders it weekly.

When we were undecided between enchiladas (shrimp $16, chicken $12) and tacos de carnitas ($16), our attentive and knowledgeable server confidently recommended the latter. Tender, slow-roasted pork magically marinated in Dos Equis beer and mild chiles came with crisp cabbage slaw, rice and beans to construct a taco masterpiece with the warm flour tortillas, in spite of the too salty slaw.

Torta de chocolate ($5) and Puerto Rican rum cake ($6) with dulche de leche were equally luscious.

Just like everything the Montano sisters have created for the past 12 years, they consistently serve fare with heart and soul representing their Bolivian descent. Luna Maya is truly special.

Tammy G. Jaxtheimer, flavor@pilotonline.com