Monroe Duncan goes to Smithfield

Marvelous Monroe has touched down in Smithfield.

Chef Monroe Duncan, who has brought flair, fun and fine cooking to the Tidewater dining scene for more than three decades, is taking over as general manager at the Smithfield Inn.

I found Monroe at the inn yesterday, where he outlined preliminary plans for the establishment.

“We’re getting back to our roots,” Monroe said.

Those roots are deep.

The inn was built in 1752 and in 1759 began operating as a tavern and inn to serve the main stage coach route from Norfolk to Richmond. But what Monroe was specifically referring to is the period from 1922 to 1968, when Mr. and Mrs. Daniel Sykes bought the inn and made extensive renovations, including adding a large kitchen, a dining room wing and expanding the front porch. The Sykes Inn was known for its home cooked foods, its leisurely formality and refined attendance.

Jon Olinger will continue as head chef and many popular dishes will remain on the menu, including the luncheon favorite, chicken pot pies. Many other Southern favorites will be added to the menu, plus some “avant-garde” dishes. Sunday brunch will return as well.

Plans are for the establishment to remain open through Valentine’s Day and then close for a month or so for extensive renovations of the menu and dining room.

When the Smithfield Inn reopens, Monroe promises a grand menu of Southern dishes in dining room that harkens to the leisurely formality that Mrs. Sykes was known for. And, he added, everyone from bikers to bankers to banker-bikers will be welcome.

COMMENTS ADVISORY: Users are solely responsible for opinions they post here; comments do not reflect the views of The Virginian-Pilot or its websites. Users must follow agreed-upon rules: Be civil, be clean, be on topic; don't attack private individuals, other users or classes of people. Read the full rules here.
- Comments are automatically checked for inappropriate language, but readers might find some comments offensive or inaccurate. If you believe a comment violates our rules, click the report violation link below it.