May peas -- get 'em before they're gone

Sometimes I imagine this time of year as a sort of ever-changing buffet.

At the start of the line are the crocus blooms, just to convince you that beautiful things will soon emerge from the earth. Then come bouquets of daffodils. Lettuces and shad roe and asparagus. Then sage, then flounder and strawberries and soft-shell crabs.

Yesterday, during one of my reconnaissance missions to Currituck, N.C. – that stretch between the Va.-N.C. state line and the bridge to the Outer Banks – I found myself standing in front of the May pea section of the buffet.

These tiny green peas are a less-lauded herald of spring than the strawberry patches. Cooked until tender, they are a fleeting spring treat. I bought this fat bag at Grandy Greenhouse & Farm Market, already shelled and ready to cook.

At the farm stand checkout counter, just the sight of this fat, little bag of peas evoked questions, a bit of excitement and a quick exchange of recipes.

The lady behind me said she’d been fixing her May peas by boiling them for an hour in water with a little salt and butter. The man at the counter said his wife boils them for a scant 15 minutes with a cube of beef bullion.

I always like a few handfuls raw – and I can’t be the only one! They are crunchy and have a sweet vegetable-y flavor. The rest, I’m planning to put marry with pasta, peas, sage and bread crumbs. (The recipe is below)

So this weekend, make it a point to go to a farmer’s market and scoop up some May peas, because in no time, they’ll be gone.

But the rest of that buffet stretches before us – blueberries, tomatoes (oh, tomatoes!), peaches, cukes, summer squashes . . . .

Pick your own May peas at Brookdale Farm in Chesapeake near Bergey's Breadbasket. Click here for a listing of area farmers markets.

And here’s your May pea recipe from “Local Flavors – Cooking and Eating from America’s Farmer’s Markets” by Deborah Madison.

Pasta with Peas, Fresh Sage, and Bread Crumbs Serves 2 to 4

Sea salt and freshly ground pepper ½ pound small pasta shapes, such as radiatore or lumache 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, olive oil, or a mixture ¼ cup finely diced shallot or scallion 1 pound pod peas, shucked (that’s May peas for us!) 3 tablespoons chopped sage 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest ½ cup fresh bread crumbs 1/3 cup chopped parsley Sage blossoms, if available

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add salt and the pasta.

2. While the pasta is cooking, heat 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet, add the shallot, and cook gently for a few minutes, until softened. Add the peas, sage, and 1 cup of the pasta water and stew until the peas are bright green and tender, 1 or 2 minutes. Add the lemon zest.

3. Crisp the bread crumbs in the remaining butter or oil in a small skillet. When the pasta is done, drain it, add it directly to the peas, and toss. Taste for salt, season with pepper, and toss with the parsley and bread crumbs. Garnish with he purple sage blossoms, if available.

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