Explore! Lexington, a feast of Virginia history

As you drive into the center of Lexington, you pass the austere buildings of Virginia Military Institute, which bills itself as a training ground for leaders. Wind around the streets, and suddenly you see a pilates studio, and you just know Stonewall Jackson never heard of such a thing.

It’s this mix of old and new that makes Lexington a fun weekend trip.

The town, founded in 1778, was named for the first battle of the Revolutionary War, fought three years earlier in Lexington, Mass. In the Virginia version of Lexington, located west of the Blue Ridge Mountains, you’ll find history galore and shopping aplenty – almost always delivered with a smile.

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This trip started out a little differently for me. Normally, I research a place before I visit, but this time I decided to see what I would learn when I got to town.

I wasn’t at all disappointed.

The Visitor Center in the heart of downtown is a treasure trove of information. A woman there gave me an impressive list of activities for the area, a clear map and many brochures.

She went the extra mile by telling me where I could park my car to keep it cool in the sweltering heat and where I could get homemade ice cream in between visits to historical sites. 

I did not tell her that I prefer the opposite: visiting a historical site in between ice cream shops.

 It’s easy to feast on history in Lexington. The Lee Chapel and Museum, where Gen. Robert E. Lee and his family are buried, has exhibits that offer glimpses of Civil War-era life. Lee’s horse, Traveller, is buried nearby.

War buffs also can spend time at the George C. Marshall Museum, which teaches about the VMI graduate who devised the Marshall Plan to help Europe bounce back from World War II; the Museum of Military Memorabilia; and the Stonewall Jackson House.

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The downtown area has plenty of good shopping and good food for those less historically inclined.

The streets are a jumble of buildings put together in a way that make them seem  very old.

Two galleries, Artisans on Washington Street and Artists in Cahoots, both on Washington Street, offer a range of local art. I found a stoneware casserole dish; a Russell sprout, a clay trinket that looked like a Brussells sprout; and some handdrawn cards.

Clothes stores, bookstores and more can be found. I thought it was funny that The Bookery was next to a bakery.

My favorite restaurant was the cute Bistro on Main. I had lunch there, and the quiche was fresh and delicious and the staff was friendly. All around me, other patrons raved about their meals to each other and to the staff. 

I would have returned for dinner, but it’s closed on Sunday evenings.

Another good, but much more casual, place was A Joyful Spirit Cafe, a buzzing eatery selling specialized wraps, paninis and more.

Many in town were talking about the recent fire at the decades-old Southern Inn Restaurant. The future of the fine-dining establishment is in limbo; its website says the place will be closed until further notice.

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Education continues to play a big part in Lexington’s livelihood.

The Liberty Hall Academy opened in 1790. After George Washington gave a chunk of money to the college, the name was changed to Washington College to honor the first president. At the end of the Civil War, Gen. Lee was appointed president of the college, and the name later became Washington and Lee University.

Virginia Military Institute, opened in 1839, has numerous famous alumni. Among its faculty was Maj. Thomas J. Jackson, soon to become known as “Stonewall’’ Jackson,” a hero to the Confederate army.

For a trip back in time of another kind, try a carriage tour before you retire for the night. Or for those brave enough, take a ghost tour to learn about local haunts.

The area has a number of historic bed and breakfasts, but the heat led me to opt for the lure of a swimming pool. I stayed at one of the many chain hotels outside downtown, the Wingate by Wyndham Lexington.

My visit was relaxing, educational and just plain fun, and I was greeted warmly by just about everyone I met.

The one exception was an 8- or 9-year-old girl at the Joyful Spirit Cafe, a great irony in itself.

She audibly announced to her mother that she simply did not like people and wasn’t about to take it back.

I feel certain she was a tourist.

Bernadette Kinlaw, (757) 446-2654, bernadette.kinlaw@pilotonline.com