Review: Flagship Restaurant is oasis of relaxation

On a recent Friday afternoon, while perched atop bar stools, we watched the sun cast sparkles over Scotts Creek in Portsmouth. It was happy hour, albeit a quiet one.

Later, we got to wondering: What makes a quality happy hour? At the Flagship Restaurant, nearly all the pieces were in place - a waterside deck, live music, meaningful drink and food specials, a friendly bartender with lots of stories (including one about the genesis of a particularly foul hand gesture). // What was missing was the crowd. Owner Alan Parker said that on Friday afternoons, sometimes it's jamming, sometimes it's not.

Either way, we recommend it. The tranquil setting provides the perfect antidote to a poison workweek, and the happy hour specials - particularly the eats - make it worth seeking out.

Prefer more of a crowd? Try Wednesday night's Jimmy Buffett-themed happy hour; we hear there's almost always a party.

the vibe

Throughout happy hour, couples and families - including one family on bikes - arrived to dine in the seafood restaurant. Others came to sip cocktails on the deck, where not-too-loud acoustic music provided the backdrop. Inside at the bar, the seven (nontwirling) seats were never all filled, but the bartender kept things lively.

the crowd

An obviously local crew of regulars with whom the bartender and wait staff have an easy rapport. Ages ranged from "better let me see that ID" to senior citizens.

dress

At one end of the bar, an older gentleman dressed in shirtsleeves, a tie and wingtips; at the other, a guy in a T-shirt wearing a ball cap backwards. Anything goes.

best thing overheard

"Baking over football? You gotta be kidding me. Who goes to baking class over football?"

libations

Full bar and import and domestic on-tap beers, including Norfolk Canyon Pale Ale and Red Nun Red Ale, made in Norfolk by O'Connor's Brewing Co.

happy hour deal

From 4 to 7 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday: domestic beer, $1.75; imported premium beer, $2.50; well drinks, $2. Several appetizers are half-price ($3.50 to $4.50) during happy hour, but only if you sit at the inside bar. They include calamari, blackened tuna bites, spinach and artichoke dip, and pot stickers. For Wednesday night's happy hour, Cheeseburgers in Paradise are $5 and margaritas cost $2, plus there's a live band from 5 to 9:30 p.m.

edibles

Although it's not on special, try the Oysters Flagship ($7.98 for five big ones). This riff on the traditional Oysters Rockefeller features a spinach-artichoke spread and bacon bits. Flagship's steamed shrimp ($14.99 for 1 pound) took top honors in The Pilot's 2008 steamed shrimp taste test.

parking

Nice and shady under a big, old cedar tree. Free, too.

smoking

Not permitted inside, but feel free to fire one up on the creekside deck.