Beach's Vietnam Garden eatery really has your number

By Judy Cowling Correspondent

For 11 years, Vietnam Garden has quietly delivered fresh and reliable fare in a small strip shopping center off Virginia Beach Boulevard.

If you don't know about this place, then my guess is your friends do. And if they haven't told you about it, you might want to re-evaluate your friendship.

This is one of my best friend's favorite lunch spots. I know we are on steady ground, because she shared it with me on a recent rainy Tuesday. The menu listings are in Vietnamese, but they are also numbered, so you can just say "Number five, please."

Green apple ceilings, white walls, faux concrete tabletops with metallic sparkles illuminated by spotlight pendants, and thatched bamboo wall accents set the stage for this delightfully intimate dining spot.

We started with Goi Cuon (No. 5; $4) and enjoyed the unfried freshness of two soft rice paper garden rolls with pink shrimp on top and pork, lettuce and veggies rolled inside. The wrapper is a tad rubbery compared to the fried version, but come on, try something different. We also devoured the pan-fried chicken dumplings and the accompanying soy sauce with cilantro known as Ap Chao (No. 10; four for $4). The chewy, deeply satisfying dumplings burst with rich flavor.

No matter the temperature outside, the conditions inside are always perfect for enjoying the pho rice noodle soups. We ordered the Pho Ga with chicken - a medium bowl, which is bigger than your head, is only $5.95. A steaming pile of noodles with plenty of poultry pieces, bean sprouts and, if you ask for it, basil, was delivered to the table with hoisin and sriracha sauces. This steaming bowl could put joy in any chilly gray day.

I admit that I hogged the Thit Bo Xao (No. 51; $12.99), a tasty combination of stir-fried chicken (you can choose pork or beef) with ginger, lemongrass, onion, peanut and basil. The light, distinct flavor of lemongrass brought the dish alive. Served with a green salad, chopped peanuts and rice, it was more than I could eat at one sitting. It was just as delightful the next day for lunch.

China-born and Vietnam-raised owner Thong Evans moved here after the fall of Saigon. She set out to prove that something good came out of Vietnam. Her family-style atmosphere, attention to detail and light, made-to-order cuisine make the point deliciously.

Judy Cowling, jcowling3@cox.net