Eatery has history of rare Southern hits

By Pamela Nichols

What do you get when you combine local history, great atmosphere and delicious comfort food? Rodman's is owned by Ricky Mathews and his wife Charlene, who is better known as Charlie.

The restaurant's name is a local history lesson. Ricky's father Stewart started the eatery in 1989, after he retired from his first establishment, Portsmouth's landmark Circle Restaurant.

An astute businessman, Stewart approached Howard Rodman, who sold his vinegar-based barbecue in Suffolk, and promised that in exchange for the use of his name, the new restaurant would use only Rodman's barbecue.

The second part of the name is an homage to Bones Carroll and Buddy Whittaker, who owned a restaurant at Alexander's Corner. The duo was famous for their 'square dog,' a hot dog cut into four pieces and topped with a layer of Smithfield ham.

"They cut the ham so thin you could see through it," Ricky said. When Stewart made the same deal with Bones and Buddy, the final part of the name was added. Barbecue and square dogs remain two of their best sellers.

The Rodman's menu carries Southern staples with a few items rarely found in area restaurants, such as tomato pudding. Their liver and onions and chicken and dumplings are legendary.

For less than $10, choose from nine blue-plate dinner specials with two sides. Offerings include salmon, flounder, country-fried steak and meatloaf. Crab cake and prime rib dinners are $14.95.

The soups - chicken and rice, navy bean and Brunswick stew - are all homemade, as are the desserts, fruit cobbler and bread pudding. The bread pudding is the best I've ever had.

Portsmouth residents Bobby and Barbara Whittington have been eating square dogs for years. On the day I visited, Bobby had received a favorable doctor's report and the couple chose to celebrate at Rodman's.

"It feels like home here," he said.

Pamela Nichols, pamelawrites@hotmail.com