Deli brings a big-city feel to downtown Norfolk

NORFOLK

Downtown Norfolk's Granby Bistro and Deli had us humming about the hummus.

We also liked the other Mediterranean treats on a sampler platter ($10.95) of harmonious proportions.

Baba ghan ouj, a richer and earthier cousin to hummus made with eggplant, was terrific. Tabbouleh was a refreshing salad of parsley, bulghur (cracked wheat), green onions, tomatoes, lemon juice and a touch of mint.

Grape leaves stuffed with rice, ground beef and lamb, some of the best that I've ever had, made my guest a convert. A dollop of tzatziki - cucumber-dill yogurt sauce - and accompanying pita triangles completed the awesome appetizer.

I loved the lamb kabob ($8.95) there several years ago, but on this visit they were out. We settled for chicken, served with rice pilaf and grilled vegetables, consisting of mushroom quarters and an onion and tomato wedge with a bit of tzatziki. The pale veggies should have grilled longer, the chewy chicken less.

Grilled salmon ($9.95), requested rare, arrived closer to well, but still satisfied with "Bistro sauce," similar to a smooth Thousand Island. The same grilled veggies with rice, appealing rolls and butter, completed the healthy lunch.

Thinly sliced corned beef, house-cooked, was appealing with brown mustard and Swiss cheese on rye, but next time we would ask for the bread heated, not toasted. The accompanying potato salad, chock-full of onions and eggs, was very good.

The chocolate crust, white chocolate cheesecake ($1.95) was good, but homemade baklava was special. Nuts layered with delicate, golden puff pastry were not sweet and syrupy. Instead they were fragrant with rose water.

The exposed brick walls in the storefront dining room with sidewalk seating along with friendly servers made my guests and I feel as if we were in a big city.

Granby Bistro serves breakfast all day, along with homemade soups and cold platters - tuna, chicken, egg or tuna salads - or club and R euben sandwiches.

The Lebanese owner, Adel Hagez, also brings international flavors to the menu. Granby Bistro will open for dinner on Thursday, Friday and Saturday starting next week.

Tammy Jaxtheimer, flavor@pilotonline.com