Introducing: Queens of brunch in Virginia Beach

PEOPLE! PEOPLE! LADY GAGA IS IN THE HOUSE!

So are Wynonna, Cyndi Lauper, Cher, Rihanna and her umbrella. Right here in Virginia Beach! No, not at the Amphitheater. Not at The Pavilion. At Croc's 19th Street Bistro.

OK, OK. Not the real celebrities, but superstars in the field of female impersonation.

The success of restaurant drag brunches in cities like Richmond, Washington and Charleston, S.C., led Croc's owner Laura Habr to decide it just might work here. She serendipitously met 43-year-old local antiques dealer and designer Joseph Griffin, who performs under the moniker of Victoria L. Foster.

She had the space. He could gather the talent and direct the show. Boom boom pow. The Drag Yourself to Brunch was born.

The brunches happen on the second and fourth Sundays of the month, with two seatings. Habr has developed a menu fit for a queen - really, that's one of the specials. The Fit for a Queen is scrambled eggs, bacon, hash browns, fruit and a glass of champagne for $11.11. Other offerings include The Carmen Miranda, The Quiche Victoria and Madame's French Toast, as well as tuna bites, crab cake and risotto, shrimp cocktail, salads and hummus, and special pricing on mimosas and Bloody Marys.

The inaugural brunch in January sold out two seatings. This weekend's shows are no different. The show is rated PG-13, with the performers flaunting acquired assets.

"Check your baggage at the door," said Griffin, who has been performing in drag for 15 years. "Definitely not a show for the weak at heart. Expect the unexpected!"

The ladies rocked with sky-high hair and towering heels. Some impersonated their idols, while others performed choreographed numbers to their favorite songs: The Weather Girls' "It's Raining Men," Shania Twain's "Man! I Feel Like a Woman!" and Nancy Sinatra's "These Boots Are Made for Walkin'." You've not seen a cartwheel until you've seen one performed in 6-inch heels.

While the performers sashayed and strutted, the crowd laughed and clapped along. Cameras are welcome and even encouraged. So are tips - the more, the better. Bring a wad of ones (or bigger bills if you're feeling generous).

The elaborate costumes and makeup of these larger-than-life personalities are cornerstones of this industry.

"I have too much fashion sense for one person, so I developed the alter persona: Victoria," said Griffin. Second runner-up in 1989 and winner in 1990 of the Miss Gay Charleston USofA Pageant, Griffin is irreverent, cheeky and charged with self-confidence. He credits his success to fellow performer Angel Riviera, also known as Mercedes Douglas, who invited him to perform at Talented Tuesdays at Virginia Beach's Ambush in 2004. Griffin also gave credit to partner Clint Moore, who performs the magic with the costumes and makeup. "He's my Barbie Doll," Moore said at the show as he admired his handiwork on Victoria.

Other performers include Nikki Ross, Fushia Deville, Keresa Karrington and Barbie Delicious. Each brunch show lasts about 90 minutes and features four impersonators, who change costumes two to three times. Some of the larger headdresses require their own suitcases.

"Why do you think they call it drag?" Griffin said. " 'Cause we have to drag all this stuff around. It takes a lot of money to look this cheap. One of my friends in the business has a three-car garage filled with costumes and shoes and props. No cars. Just clothes."

Habr said the crowd response has been fantastic. "We collected about 90 comment cards from customers, and they ranged from 'awesome,' 'fabulous,' 'do this every Sunday' to 'can't wait to bring my family and friends,' " Habr said. She thinks the show is well received because it's not a typical Sunday brunch. "Our staff is having fun, customers love it, we are supporting the local economy and local entertainers within our community."

Judy Cowling, jcowling3@cox.net