Beginning July 1, will you take your own wine where you dine?

DINING OUT in Virginia gets a new wrinkle beginning July 1, when customers get the option of bringing their own wine to restaurants.

The change was adopted this year by the General Assembly. The new law gives restaurants with ABC licenses the option of allowing customers to bring their own wine and the right to charge a fee for opening and serving those bottles.

The law, commonly called BYOW for "bring your own wine," has been popular in Washington, D.C., and North Carolina.

In fact, the legislation's patron, State Sen. Jeff McWaters of Virginia Beach, and some restaurateurs in Hampton Roads and Northern Virginia, lobbied for the new law by claiming that it would help Virginia restaurants compete with the BYOW option in neighboring jurisdictions.

Recent interviews with restaurateurs in the region, however, turned up mixed feelings about the new law. Some restaurateurs said privately that they doubt customers would stand for a corkage fee that is equal to the restaurant's average profit per bottle.

One restaurateur gave an average price per bottle as $57, with the profit being about $37. Yet this restaurateur doubted his customers would stand for a corkage fee of more than $25 a bottle.

Despite the misgivings, no one said flatly that he or she would not allow BYOW, although some said they will post a "BYOW etiquette" that they expect customers to abide by. A few restaurateurs are writing rules to keep BYOW from cutting too far into their profits.

A restaurateur at the Oceanfront reported that he may allow BYOW only during the off-peak months, roughly October through May. Another in Norfolk will have a two-bottle limit per party of diners - designed to keep banquet groups from bringing in large amounts of wine.

Most restaurants seem to want to prevent customers from bringing in a bottle that is on the restaurant's wine list. To help enforce that, one proprietor said he intends to require customers to call in advance and report the pertinent label information for their BYOW bottles.

The Virginia wine industry seems hopeful that the new law will increase the number of Virginia wines consumed in restaurants. Right now, few wine lists in Hampton Roads have more than a token representation of bottles from the state's 190 wineries.

The Virginia Wineries Association has encouraged restaurant customers to demonstrate their support of the state's industry by bringing in Virginia wines.

Andy Reagan, a Norfolk native who is the winemaker at Jefferson Vineyards near Charlottesville, said he hopes fans of his wines will take them to BYOW restaurants. "I know my parents will," he said.

AROUND TOWN

Here is how some local restaurants plan to handle the bring-your-own-wine law that takes effect July 1:

Croc's 19th Street Bistro

Virginia Beach

Owner Laura Wood Habr initially opposed the law but now says, "We must swim with it. Other great culinary tourism destinations offer it, probably due to customer demand. We should observe their successes and etiquette."

Corkage fee planned $20

Special rules BYOW etiquette will be posted on the Croc's Wine Club website. All bottles not on the wine list will be allowed, no matter how humble. "If they want to pay a $20 corkage fee for a $20 bottle, so be it," Habr said.

Advantages "This presents the opportunity for us to create special dishes to pair with their wine."

Byrd & Baldwin Brothers Steakhouse, 219: An American Bistro, 4-5-6 Fish, Big Easy Grill and Oyster Bar, Bodega

Norfolk

Bill Rice, general manager for the group of restaurants, says, "I don't think it's an understatement to say a lot of us were not thrilled by this new law, but right now I'm 99 percent sure we will participate, all five restaurants."

Corkage fee planned $25 at all restaurants, with an additional $10 at Byrd & Baldwin and 4-5-6 Fish if decanting is requested.

Special rules Two-bottle limit for each dining party, no matter how large. All bottles will be eligible, even those on the restaurant's wine list. "Why should I not allow a customer to bring in a bottle of Dom Perignon he's been saving for a special occasion just because Dom Perignon is on my list?" Rice says.

Advantages Byrd & Baldwin has converted its basement into a wine cellar with about 40 units for rent to private individuals. With the new law, customers with units downstairs can have bottles from their personal collections fetched by the wait staff.

Disadvantages "I'm worried about waiters losing tips," Rice says.

Zoe's Steak and Seafood

Virginia Beach

Sommelier Marc Sauter says, "If everyone follows the rules, this could be fine, and we'll probably participate. But I have a lot of questions."

Corkage fee Undecided. If Zoe's does participate, Sauter is considering waiving the corkage fee if BYOW customers also buy a bottle off the Zoe's list.

Special rules BYOW customers would be required to call in advance to declare their intentions.

Advantages "I would certainly feel honored when people choose our restaurant to be the place they want to open a special bottle," Sauter says.

Disadvantages Sauter acknowledges that he argued against the change because he thinks BYOW could have a negative impact on restaurants with top-tier wine service. "I just got off a red-eye flight from California. I was out there because I want to secure the best possible bottles for my customers. Can I continue to do that" with BYOW?

Dough Boy's Pizza restaurants

Virginia Beach

Owner George Kotarides said, "Just tell the bartender, waitress or hostess that you have brought in a bottle from your stash at home, and enjoy your wine!"

Corkage fee $10

Special rules Dough Boy's restaurants do not have wine lists; wine is sold mostly by the glass from the bar. What would Kotarides do if customers brought in cheap wine in 1.5-liter jugs? "I'll charge them double" for the corkage, "but I doubt that will happen very often."

Advantages He plans to note the bottles that customers bring in and may tweak his stocks of wine to better reflect what people are drinking.

Disadvantages "I sell a lot of umbrella drinks during the summer, so I may not (participate in BYOW) during peak summer."

Jim Raper, humstew@cox.net