Quaint, memorable alfresco dining Circa 1918

Circa 1918, a charming restaurant with alfresco dining in the Hilton Village section of Newport News, offers a concise menu with tempting ingredients that will whet your appetite.

The drink menu presented a list of white and red wines, "barley pop" and signature cocktails. Chad Martin, known in South Hampton Roads from the once popular but now defunct Blue Hippo, is the chef-owner. More recently, Martin cooked a few blocks away at Create, which closed after a fire.

We were in a quandary over the "Mouth Amusements" category, and struggled to choose between braised veal cheeks and seared foie gras to supplement the tiger prawns we had quickly decided on.

Three large, perfectly prepared shrimp perched on chorizo brie grits ($10) tasted terrific. Slow-roasted veal cheeks with May peas and morels and a sake lemon-grass sauce ($11) were fork-tender. Saltiness tempered the appeal of the dish's quality ingredients.

From the menu section headed "Greens," we selected a delicious plate of fried smoked buffalo mozzarella stacked with fresh tomatoes and flavored with arugula basil oil and honey balsamic vinegar ($8). A bit of fresh arugula could have elevated the dish to super-delish. If greens are what you're craving, try the arugula with strawberries, blueberries, pistachios and fried Boursin with pomegranate vinaigrette ($9)

Our server provided an appetizing description of halibut ($25), an addition to the menu. The plate featured a firm, flaky fillet balanced atop andouille sausage, and the fingerling potato and crawfish hash was a winning combination. Another fish entree, crispy salmon ($24), was moist although cooked past the rare we requested. It came with a savory foie gras, green pea, Arborio rice stir-fry with cream of coconut milk.

We enjoyed the meatloaf ($20), and its surprising spicy kick, along with sour cream "mashers" and wilted spinach.

For dessert, we chose chocolate cake with hazelnut gelato and peanut butter powder ($8) and the "OMG" macadamia nut-crusted cheesecake with flambeed banana ($8). Our server delivered a complimentary Tahitian vanilla bean creme brulee ($7) to make up for the hazelnut gelato, lost to a freezer malfunction. The dry cake did not have enough chocolate flavor, but the cheesecake lived up to its claim, and the creme brulee was a well-done treat.

Our server was knowledgeable, attentive and accommodating without being overbearing. Circa 1918 is a quaint and casual upscale venue worth a drive up Interstate 64 for a memorable meal.

Tammy Jaxtheimer, flavor@pilotonline.com