Choose the right bottle of bubbly for your party

It's that sparkling wine time of year. For Christmas parties and New Year's toasts, there is no better beverage for those of us who love wine. The bubbles make the wine celebratory.

So what to buy? I'm happy to report that the pickings right now in Hampton Roads are very good, with lots of excellent sparkling wines available at all price points. But you should remember a few general terms, such as "brut," the designation for dry to mostly dry sparkling wines, and "extra dry," a term for bubblies that are a little sweeter than brut. Still sweeter versions may be labeled as "demi-sec" or "doux."

Here are some recommendations:

-- The best of the cheapest in my recent experience is Jaume Serra Cristalino Brut Cava ($6 to $9). Cava, the denomination for sparkling wine in Spain, is made by the traditional second-fermentation-in-bottle method used in Champagne. This one tastes of lemons and fresh baked bread.

-- New on the shelves are the Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi Brut and Extra Dry sparkling wines from California ($9 to $10). These are made by the Charmat method with vat fermentation, but are surprisingly tasty.

-- Inexpensive old standbys among traditional-method domestic bubblies include those from Domaine Ste. Michelle in Washington State and Korbel in California. The Ste. Michelle Blanc de Noirs ($12 to $14) has a slight pink tint to it from red grapes in the blend. The Korbel Extra Dry ($13 to $15) is perfect for those who want a sparkling wine on the peachy, off-dry side.

-- The rare bottle of Kluge Estate SP 2005 Blanc de Blanc Sparkling Wine (traditional method) may be found, even though the Kluge enterprise near Charlottesville failed and has been purchased by Donald Trump. One ABC store in Norfolk was selling this excellent, dry Chardonnay-based bubbly for $14 in late November.

-- Fruit flavors dominate in Prosecco from Italy; these are made by the Charmat method. I recommend a Prosecco with the official quality guarantee of D.O.C.G. One to look for is the Santa Margherita Prosecco Extra Dry Valdobbiadene D.O.C.G. ($20 to $25).

-- The top-value real French Champagne I've found recently is available at Trader Joe's. It's the yeasty, mineral-laced Champagne Charles de Marques Brut ($19).

-- My favorite California sparkling wine is from Roederer Estate in Anderson Valley. The traditional-method brut ($18-$21) has a bit more fruitiness than French Champagnes, such as those made by the parent enterprise, Domaine Roederer, but it still maintains a sharp citrus edge.

-- Always a winner is the nonvintage Veuve Clicquot Brut Yellow Label Champagne. Total Wine stores have this classic bubbly priced at $38. This bottle ranges up near $50 elsewhere.

-- Crowd-pleasing demi-sec Champagnes tend to be expensive. One of the most reasonable and easiest to find is the Paul Goerg Premier Cru Demi-Sec Champagne that sells for $35 at Total Wine.