Geisha delivers pleasant Japanese meal in Greenbrier

CHESAPEAKE

For many years this region had few Japanese restaurants but today, several of our cities boast more than one. Geisha Japanese Steakhouse and Sushi Bar joined the crowd three years ago, opening in Greenbrier.

The restaurant's sushi bar, with a high ceiling and windowfront dining space for tables, offers a comfortable, casual place for those not looking for the heat and entertainment of the hibachi.

Tuna roll ($2.50), salmon ($3.99) and yellowtail ($4.50) sashimi revved up our appetites, even though the sashimi slices, which had too much connective tissue, didn't quite melt in our mouths.

Though I'm normally a sushi purist who avoids creations filled with cream cheese and fried tidbits, I also tried the half-price house special, a volcano roll, regularly priced at $12.99. The red snapper, nestled in a fried seaweed wrapper with cucumber and (unfortunately, faux) crab, was tasty with the "special sauce" - but it had far too little snapper for the price.

The intimate hibachi dining room smells as if the grills are seldom at rest. Geisha soup, a mild broth with green onions and mushrooms, was a bit of a disappointment because there was no tofu, but the ginger-dressed salad was good. Guests receive a two-piece shrimp appetizer with the opportunity for more if they accept the challenge to catch a flying piece from the chef. White or fried rice is offered, as well as mixed vegetables, including broccoli, mushrooms, onions, zucchini and cabbage. The flavorful fried rice, chock-full of nicely grilled vegetable morsels, was delicious.

We selected six jumbo shrimp with "egg batter" (rather than hibachi shrimp) coupled with scallops, for the Tokyo special ($28.99). We anticipated something like tempura, but in fact it was closer to custard. I found it interesting; my guest did not embrace its uniqueness. Our server told us that people either love it or not. I, however, fell somewhere in the middle - and probably would not order it again unless I could have the jumbo shrimp plain. The dry-packed scallops, on the other hand, were appealing.

Salmon teriyaki ($19.99), requested rare but served closer to medium, still maintained its moistness and appeal. The sirloin steak, also requested rare, was on the mark in the Deluxe Special ($26.99), and was served with chicken - good, overall, despite some overdone morsels.

We finished with one of my daughters' favorites, mochi ($3.50), mini ice cream mounds encased in rice cake. It was an imperfect end to the meal - they were rubbery, not velvety.

Though there were flaws in our meal, Geisha can deliver a pleasant and entertaining dining experience. I look forward to returning for the more affordable lunch options.

Tammy Jaxtheimer, flavor@pilotonline.com