Zelick's Cafe has deli basics plus a whole lot more

When my husband and I moved to Hampton Roads, we went in search of a replacement for our favorite chicken salad from a small market near our home in Schenectady, N.Y.

It was simple: fresh white meat with light mayonnaise, a little seasoning and just the crunch of celery.

And it turns out, right here in Norfolk, Zelick's Cafe & Catering has it.

The little sandwich shop tucked into a corner of the World Trade Center downtown also has a lot more worth sampling - a menu of two dozen hot and cold concoctions, plus daily specials, most built on deli basics such as egg salad, chicken, turkey or roast beef. The cafe also serves an array of salads, soups, personal-size pizzas and made-to-order breakfasts such as egg-and-cheese on a bagel or croissant and fresh-baked muffins.

As an added convenience, Zelick's sells greeting cards, so patrons don't have to make a second stop on a lunch break if they need a last-minute offering for a colleague's birthday. And the cafe delivers for free within a 3-mile radius.

All that, plus a great view of the Norfolk waterfront. Zelick's unobtrusive cafeteria-style dining area is bright and airy, with colorful tablecloths and large windows that look across Waterside Drive to the boats docked on the Elizabeth River and Portsmouth beyond.

Steven and Lynne Saunders, the Norfolk natives who took over the Zelick's space more than seven years ago, pride themselves on fresh-to-order fare. "We try to prepare daily," Lynne said. "I'm happy to tell you, 'I'm out of that. I'm out of broccoli.' "

She means the key ingredient in the broccoli salad, one of a half-dozen homemade side dishes and the cafe's most popular. It's adorned with bacon and cheddar cheese. The pasta salad, which I chose to accompany my chicken salad, was zesty with Italian dressing.

As mentioned, the chicken salad was classic, with celery and almonds adding bite to the overall fresh, satisfying flavor. It was loaded onto wheat bread with lettuce and tomato.

My friend ordered a hot sandwich, the teriyaki chicken and pineapple roll-up, a generous portion of marinated chicken breast with a punch of scallions and melted provolone cheese. The tomato wrap was warm but not soggy, and the pineapple provided a perfect balance to the chicken's tang.

We finished the meal with tastes of two of the day's muffins: almond joy and low-fat peach. Both were moist, scrumptious and just sweet enough to work as breakfast or dessert.

Besides their refined food sense - Steven Saunders grew up in his family's grocery business - the owners bring warmth and hominess to Zelick's. They know regulars by name, chat readily with newcomers, remind diners of free fountain-beverage refills and keep the place immaculate.

It's just one step away from eating in your own kitchen - but with a nearly endless selection of fresh food that someone else will expertly prepare for you.

Carolyn Shapiro, (757) 446-2270, carolyn.shapiro@pilotonline.com