Longtime eatery Pasta e Pani is family friendly

VIRGINIA BEACH

Pasta e Pani has been a notable restaurant on the local dining scene since 1990, both as a full-service restaurant and as a retail shop with a focus on pasta, bread and Italian specialties. Today, in their Hilltop location, owners Angelo and Maria Serpe serve dinner Tuesday through Sunday.

The simply decorated dining room, with tables covered in linens and white butcher paper and a banquette the length of one wall, appeared to be occupied by regulars on the evening we visited. We overheard waiters taking familiar orders, and watched Angelo peek out of the kitchen to give a robust wave or make his way to a table to catch up. Although we were not familiar faces, we still received welcoming and attentive service.

From the antipasti selection, we chose bruschetta alla toscano ($8.95), grilled bread teetering with chopped tomatoes, roasted red and orange pepper slivers and shaved Parmigiano cheese. It was fresh and delicious.

We selected Pizza Siciliana ($10.95) for its anchovies - and when it was presented by a server other than our own, we were slow to realize that it was minus the salty fish. The pizza went back to be remedied, and although it was appealing, the anchovies never got the benefit of full oven time. The leftover slices (after extra oven time at home) were even tastier.

The Lasagna Napoletana ($18.95), a large square of stacked pasta with sliced sausages and meatballs held together with tomato sauce and ricotta, Parmigiano and mozzarella cheeses, was a rousing success. And one menu addition, tender and moist veal coupled with an earthy eggplant slice, tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese with a side of fettuccine ($21.95), was truly special.

Since few restaurants take the time to make homemade pasta, we were compelled to select one of the eight offered. Fettuccine al pepe nero ($15.95) was al dente black pepper pasta sauteed with sliced mushrooms, pancetta, shallots, garlic, spinach, veal stock and thyme. The result was a rich dish with big thyme flavor.

From the homemade dessert offerings, the Maria brownie with vanilla gelato ($4.95) pleased my dark-chocolate-addicted husband. The other sweets on offer also sounded as if they had pleasing power, perfectly matched for the savory side of things at Pasta e Pani.

Tammy Jaxtheimer, flavor@pilotonline.com