Hispanic tradition brings treat on Los Reyes Magos

NORFOLK

At Jessy's, a Hispanic emporium at 3201 E. Ocean View Ave., customers can buy Spanish-language DVDs, cowboy boots or hot, home-style Mexican enchiladas any time.

But it's only today, on Los Reyes Magos - also known by Christians as Epiphany - that they can get baker Edi Herrera 's ring-shaped rosca de reyes, or kings' bread.

The sweet bread is part of a Mexican tradition for the holiday, known also as Dia de los Reyes, that carries the Christmas season past Dec. 25.

Epiphany marks the visit by gift-bearing kings - also known as the wise men or the magi - to the newborn Jesus. Many Mexican families give gifts on Epiphany.

But bakers, including Herrera, recall the Epiphany with a special ingredient in their dough: figures of baby Jesus.

Herrera mixed four infant Christs into each small rosca and eight in the large size before baking. The plastic figures, shorter than a wooden matchstick, depicted a baby with hands pressed together in prayer.

Some writers say the hidden baby Jesus represents the infant's escape with his family to Egypt to hide from King Herod's assassins.

But for families, the fun of rosca is seeing who gets the slices with the infant figures.

By custom, whoever gets a mouthful of messiah is obliged to pay for and prepare another holiday meal on Candelaria, or Candlemas, on Feb. 2.

Herrera started mixing 400 pounds of flour on Sunday and was hand-shaping and baking the sweet bread at a furious pace on Monday, preparing 200 orders.

The finished bread was a crusty brown ring garnished with figs and green, yellow and red strips of candied fruit. Daubs of powdered sugar mix resembling ricotta cheese had bubbled like cooled lava.

The biggest loaves were nearly a yard long and more than 2 feet wide.

Herrera said the baking blitz is part cultural, part religious and all work. "Yes, I feel a little spiritual, but I also feel tired at the end of the day," he said.

Steven G. Vegh, (757) 446-2417, steven.vegh@pilotonline.com