Taste Test: Best fried shrimp in Hampton Roads

AFTER A NUMBER OF YEARS OF TASTE TESTS, we’ve learned a thing or two about South Hampton Roads’ taste buds. The foods that by far raised the most ruckus: hot dogs and Philly cheesesteak sandwiches. Now add fried shrimp to the list. Nearly 700 people called to vote for their favorite. More than 100 clamored to be testers. On a recent summer Sunday, four lucky readers sampled fried shrimp at three of the most nominated restaurants. Here’s what they found.

Eastville Inn

It’s a bit of a drive to our first stop, the historic Eastville Inn, on the Eastern Shore about 35 miles from the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel. Still, readers from both sides of the Bay called to rave about the restaurant’s fried shrimp.

The white clapboard building, circa 1724, has a long front porch and an old-South feel. Inside, the floors are hardwood, dining room walls are painted a soft yellow, and heavy garnet drapes grace floor-to-ceiling windows.

We arrive between the lunch and dinner hour and are graciously greeted by the hostess, who seats us at a long table covered by a thick, white tablecloth.

The place exudes tradition, but the shrimp here is anything but. Our dinners arrive soon after being ordered: six large tempura fried shrimp, with coleslaw, fries and an unusual Dijon-horseradish dipping sauce on the plate. The waitress brings a basket of sweet potato biscuits to pass around.

Appearance/aroma scores are average to above average, with testers George Raiss and Sandra Bryant awarding the highest accolades for the food-filled plates.

Then, the tasting begins. The shrimp, which chef Charles Thain says are 16/20-count Gulf shrimp (meaning there are 16 to 20 shrimp per pound), earn average to perfect scores for size, taste and texture. “Definitely not mushy,” Sandra says. “Crisp and fresh.”

The tempura treatment is a bit of a curveball. Sandra and George award near-perfect scores. “It’s not greasy at all,” George says. “They were done just right; the color was perfect, as was the taste.”

But Gina and Thomas think otherwise. They find the shrimp greasy and the breading too thick.

The Eastville Inn picks up points for condiments. At tableside, Thain explains why he pairs seafood with a sauce commonly served with beef. The two, he says, make a perfect marriage.

And that’s when it starts coming together for everyone. Testers award stratospheric scores for the condiment. “Fantastic,” Gina says. And the Eastville Inn will be tough to beat in this category.

Then comes value. It’s a bit of an investment to get here, but the Eastville Inn easily overcomes the bridge-tunnel toll handicap and positions itself as a strong contender for the gold.

“Excellent value,” George says. “Good portions … and the drive across the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel is always a pleasure. And if you make it a day trip, the toll is half price.”

Surf Rider Restaurant

No matter what the seafood, Surf Rider Restaurants always garner plenty of reader nominations in our taste tests. It was no different for fried shrimp.

We pop into the Cypress Point location in Virginia Beach just in front of a summer shower. The early dinner crowd has arrived en force, but we are quickly shown to a seat in a dining room decorated with sailfish and such. This is a family-owned restaurant, a casual spot, and a jeans-clad waitress cheerfully takes our orders.

The main event arrives shortly thereafter, big and butterflied, golden brown, accompanied by hush puppies, a plastic cup of cocktail sauce, wedge of lemon and a curly leaf of kale to garnish.

Appearance/aroma scores eke past Eastville’s.

Onward to the shrimp category. The menu says the tiger shrimp are 10/12 count, but assistant manager Crystal Kemph tells us that today the shrimp are actually 13/15 count. It’s unusual, but sometimes it happens, she says.

Still, scores range from above average to perfect for the shrimps’ size, taste and texture. “Not very big in size,” Thomas says, “but big in taste.”

Surf Rider again squeaks past Eastville.

The breading here is light, made with House-Autry seafood breading with a “Surf Rider spin,” Kemph says. Scores range from Sandra’s perfect to above average from the rest of the judges for the breading and cooking. “The coating was light,” Sandra says, “and the shrimp were cooked just right and not greasy.”

But the Surf Rider takes a tumble for condiments – humble cocktail and tarter. Not that there is anything wrong with those, but our testers want something more.

“A special sauce can make a fried shrimp click,” George says. “These did not.”

With the value category to go, it’s still a race. The scores come in above average, but not enough to overcome the Eastville Inn, which at this point sits in first place.

Steinhilber’s

Mention fried shrimp to many a local, and they’ll likely sigh and say, “Steiny’s.”

Scores of votes cast in this taste test were for the venerable restaurant fronted by blooming crape myrtles with a big magnolia out back. It opened in 1939 and is hidden at the back of an old Virginia Beach neighborhood on the banks of Buchanan Creek.

The place has an old feel to it – not as old as the Eastville Inn – but the tongue-in-groove paneling and vases and vases of colorful zinnias convey comfort and stability and Southern hospitality.

We’re a bit late for our reservations, but no matter. We’re quickly shown to a long table in the original main dining room. At one end hangs a portrait of patriarch Robert Steinhilber smiling at the customers who still fill his family’s restaurant.

Our dinners – six fried shrimp with house salad and choice of side – take longer to arrive than expected. But when they do, the testers like what they see. Six butterflied shrimp sit tail up on the plate, with hot side dishes alongside and ceramic cups of the legendary Steinhilber’s dipping sauce. The bread basket holds sweet cornbread and homemade rolls.

Only Thomas finds the appearance/aroma less than outstanding; he prefers a more golden hue. Big scores from the others, however, are enough for Steiny’s to surpass the Eastville Inn, and they’re off to a good start.

The restaurant serves Gulf shrimp with a count of 10 and under. Co-owner Jeanne Steinhilber (Robert Steinhilber’s daughter) tells testers that it’s their most popular dinner. The Saturday night prior, 100 of about 300 patrons ordered fried shrimp. She tells of one regular customer who has been eating here 39 years and has never ordered anything else.

Again, there’s a split in the shrimp category. Sandra, George and Gina find it all but perfect.

“Firm and flavorful,” George says.

Another low score from Thomas still can’t pull Steiny’s out of first place in this category.

The breading here is top secret. Two testers – George and Sandra – award perfect scores and call it cloudlike.

“The shrimp are similar in size to the others,” Sandra says. “The difference is in the batter. The cloud-light breading is distinctive and is what sets it apart. You can

really taste the freshness of the shrimp.”

Smart money would likely have Steinhilber’s taking the prize in the condiment category for its special dipping sauce, a creamy blend of secret ingredients that may have some tartar sauce kin. It’s near legendary.

George, an admitted sauce man, gives it a perfect score, and Sandra’s and Thomas’ scores aren’t far behind. “Not my usual choice, but very good,” Thomas says.

A lowball score from Gina puts Steiny’s in second for the sauce, which will seem a sacrilege to many locals. Still, with one category to go, one of the area’s oldest restaurants is holding its lead.

This is the most expensive shrimp of the day, but testers love the storied service, the atmosphere and the spirit. When the scores are tallied, Steinhilber’s takes first place.

THE ROUND UP

Our winner!

STEINHILBER'S
653 Thalia Road,
Virginia Beach
(757) 340-1156
www.steinys.com

Price  Full dinner with a house salad and choice of one side, $27.95; as an appetizer, $35.95 per dozen or $18 a half dozen

What they said:
“Firm, moist, plump. They burst in your mouth when you bite into them.” – Gina Hurt

“The aroma was enticing. I almost didn’t wait until the others were served to dig in!” – Sandra R. Bryant

“My wife says that I like my shrimp the size and shape of New Jersey. These came close.” – George Raiss

“Very light texture and a real shrimp taste. This place has a nice atmosphere, and the service is excellent!” – Thomas Wiggins

The others:

EASTVILLE INN
16422 Courthouse Road, Eastville
(757) 678-5745
www.eastvilleinn.com

Price: Six shrimp with coleslaw and French fries, $18.95; $14.95 at lunch

What they said:
“Meaty, large shrimp that smelled great and had a nice, golden color.” – Thomas

“The tempura coating is just right, not overpowering. The shrimp were cooked just right, too, firm but moist and tasty.” – George

“Fresh taste without any fishiness. And the Dijon horseradish dipping sauce is fantastic!” – Gina

“Good portion, good size, good quality of shrimp. Now add historic ambience and why not? It’s worth the trip. Have a sweet potato biscuit for me!” – Sandra

SURF RIDER RESTAURANTS
Locations in Norfolk, Virginia Beach and Hampton.
We visited the Surf Rider Cypress Point at
928 Diamond Springs Road, Virginia Beach
(757) 497-3534; www.surfridergroup.com

Price: Ten shrimp with two sides, $16.95; six shrimp with two sides, $12.45

What they said
“Nicely butterflied. I was there as soon as I saw the plate filled with six fried shrimp and hush puppies.” – Thomas

“The breading is not mushy or soggy. It has a nice, buttery flavor and a good crunch. It sticks to the shrimp.” – Gina

“The shrimp were succulent. You can definitely taste the shrimp; the coating is very light.” – Sandra

“At $12.45 for six, it’s a very good value.” – George

ABOUT THE SCORING:  Fried shrimp were scored in five categories: appearance/aroma, size/taste/texture, breading/cooking, condiments and value. Testers’ scores were added and averaged to arrive at the final scores.

THE NOMINIEES:

Chesapeake
Amory’s Seafood Restaurant
Court House Cafe
Pirate’s Cove Restaurant
Rose Bay Seafood Restaurant

Norfolk
456 Fish
The Grate Steak
The Lido Inn
Magnolia Steak & Seafood Co.
Norfolk Yacht and Country Club
Ship’s Cabin
Tabb’s at Riverview
Todd Jurich’s Bistro
Willoughby Inn Seafood Restaurant

Portsmouth
East Side Pizza
The Flagship Restaurant
Lobscouser
Mario’s Italian Restaurant

Suffolk
Bennett’s Creek Restaurant & Marina

Virginia Beach
Anchor Inn
Beach Pub
Big Sam’s Inlet Cafe & Raw Bar
Blue Pete’s Seafood Restaurant
Bluewater Seafood
Boardwok
Charlie’s Seafood Restaurant
The Cheesecake Factory
Chick’s Oyster Bar
Croakers
Dockside Inn
501 City Grill
Hooks Saltwater Grill & Sushi
Hot Tuna Bar & Grill
The Icehouse Restaurant
Lucky Oyster
Lynnhaven Fish House
Margie and Ray’s Restaurant
McCormick & Schmick’s
Nick’s Hospitality Restaurant
Rockafeller’s Restaurant
Seacrest Restaurant
Shorebreak
Steinhilber’s
Summer’s Past
Upper Deck Restaurant
Wicker’s Crab Pot Seafood

Multiple locations
Atlas Grill and Bar
Captain D’s
Keagan’s
No Frill Bar & Gril l
O’Sullivan’s Wh arf
Pollard’s Chicken
Surf Rider

Elsewhere
Basnight’s Lone Cedar Cafe, Nags Head, N.C.
Bill’s Seafood House, Newport News
BJ’s Carolina Cafe, Jarvisburg, N.C.
Captain Chuck-a-Muck’s, R escue
Coinjock Marina & Restaurant, Coinjock, N.C.
Dockside Restaurant, Franklin
Dolphin Den, Avon, N.C.
Eastville Inn, Eastville
Exmore Diner, Exmore
Frog Island Seafood, Barco, N.C.
Owens’ Restaurant, Nags Head, N.C.
Quality Seafood Co., Elizabeth City, N.C.
Quarterdeck Restaurant, Frisco, N.C.
Rundown Cafe, Kitty Hawk, N.C.
Sugar Creek Seafood Restaurant, Nags Head, N.C.

THE JUDGES

George Raiss
64, Norfolk
Occupation: Retired Norfolk public schools administrator, now a development consultant at St. Patrick Catholic School in Norfolk
Nominated: Steinhilber’s and Norfolk Yacht and Country Club
On fried shrimp: “To be truly memorable, fried shrimp must be jumbo in size, lightly breaded, moist, and come with an interesting sauce like Louis or something similar. Not cocktail sauce!”

Sandra R. Bryant
49, Norfolk
Occupation: Assistant professor at Regent University
Nominated: Surf Rider Restaurant and Steinhilber’s
On fried shrimp: “Personally, I don’t like a lot of that sauce, which takes away from the flavor of the shrimp. Just give me a lemon squeeze on top of hot fried shrimp and I can tell you a lot, including how fresh they really are, how well they’re cooked and whether the oil is relatively clean.”

Thomas Wiggins
45, Norfolk
Occupation: Truck driver
Nominated: Lynnhaven Fish House Restaurant
On fried shrimp: “I’m the one at work that people ask where to go out to eat. Fried shrimp is my favorite seafood. When cooked right, it just can’t be beat.”

Gina Hurt
24, Virginia Beach
Occupation: Student at Tidewater Community College and bartender
Nominated: Beach Pub, Virginia Beach
On fried shrimp: “I really prefer to fry them myself – medium to large shrimp in a lightly seasoned breading, sometimes with a bit of beer mixed in, and fried to golden brown.”

NEXT TEST: BEEF TACO

Ole! It’s time we found the best beef taco in town.

Know of a restaurant that stuffs them just right? Let us know the name of the restaurant and the city where it is located.

Want to be a tester? Tell us why and be sure to include your name, age, city of residence and contact information, including an e-mail address if you have one.

Leave nominations (one vote per person, please!) and tester applications on our taste test line at (757) 446-2334 or send to tastetest@pilotonline.com.

Lorraine Eaton, (757) 446-2697,lorraine.eaton@pilotonline.com