Ship’s Cabin, down on the shores of the Chesapeake Bay, has been a Norfolk institution for many years. I know couples who went there on dates and now are long married. It has a wonderful location, breezes on the outdoor deck during the temperate times of year, a view of the nighttime lights of the Chesapeake Bay-Bridge Tunnel on clear evenings and a cozy interior. While the neighborhood might have been described as “interesting” in years past, it now sits in the middle of a reawakening waterfront area.
The weathered building is unimposing when you approach. The front door opens into a very comfortable layout with indoor and outdoor seating. A central section includes a fireplace and piano; there are also booths, tables and banquettes with a view of the beach and water.
The menu is a virtual map of Italy, with such chicken preparations as Tuscany, Sorrentino and Florentine alongside shrimp Venezia and Milano. While there are a few other dishes, such as jambalaya, she-crab soup and chicken Santa Fe, it remains fairly true to the bella cuisine.
On a recent evening we started with a soup and an appetizer.
The she-crab soup ($3.95) was very creamy. It had a light crab flavor but also a slight touch of uncooked flour. Overall it had good taste, but not with the abundance of crab that I have come to expect from other local versions.
The clams oreganato ($7.95) were very good. Six little neck clams were opened and topped with breading mixture containing garlic and herbs. These were baked, then served with a wedge of lemon. They were expertly prepared, just to the point where the clams would pop off their connections with the shell, but not overcooked. I found them both tasty and tender.
The meals came with side salads, which were served before the main plates. These were competent little salads, fresh and crisp with iceberg lettuce, red onion, and tomatoes. The dressing was a well-proportioned oil and vinegar.
An excellent house-made bread, served with the meals, was warm and had a nicely developed texture that was a touch chewy.
Our first entree was the chicken princess ($17.95). This was identified as one of the chef’s menu specialties. It consisted of two chicken breasts pounded flat, lightly breaded, then pan fried. A thin, lightly fried crab cake was then placed on one breast, broccoli was placed on top, then it was covered with the other piece of chicken and mozzarella cheese. This was baked until the cheese melted and was covered with a lemony brown sauce with mushrooms. I really liked this dish and regretted that I had to travel the next day and someone else in the house would get the portion I brought home in the doggie bag.
Our second choice was the rockfish special ($21.95). The fish was given a typical Mediterranean treatment, sauteed with olives, tomato and spinach and served over linguini. The fish was white, firm and flaky, though it had a strip of dark meat going through it that detracted a little from the overall flavor. This, too, was finished with a lemony white wine sauce. I enjoyed the combination of flavors.
We finished the evening with a piece of baklava ($3.95) that was created on site. As might be expected in a restaurant whose owners are Greek, the baklava was wonderful. Walnuts and honey were layered in sheets of flaky phyllo dough, sprigged with clove and baked. This was plated over squiggles of caramel and chocolate with dollops of whipped cream. Overall, it was a rich and tasty dessert.
We enjoyed the service by our effusive but non-intrusive waitress. Her recommendations were spot on, and she was a pleasure to have around.
Although it has been through several changes and owners over the years, this Norfolk institution has lost none of its charm. It remains a lovely place to eat and enjoy the sights at the southern end of the Chesapeake Bay.
Jerry Cronin, flavor@pilotonline.com